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How To Upload Image In Forums
In order to help those interested in uploading images in our forums section of our website. I have tried to explain the process here for you.
When logged into the website and are either posting a new question in our forums or responding to one and you feel using a IMAGE helps explain better you can do this easily within your post.
First CLICK the
TREE icon
Next either paste the URL from the world wide web or click the CAMERA icon to upload your own image off of your computer.

Then a new pop-up opens where you can then select the BROWSE button and find the image that is stored on your computer to upload. NOTE: If you have already uploaded images to your private folder just click the BROWSE button in the upper left corner instead to select from.

After you have selected your IMAGE or IMAGES to upload..then click on the UPLOAD button. That will then upload your new images into your own special online folder on our site. To find those to include in your post now or again in the future. You need to click on the BROWSE button to find those uploaded images.
Once here, just click on the IMAGE you want to appear in your post, click it and it should show up in your post for other to now reference.
I recommend typing your instructions first and upload the image last !!
Updating Profile & Avatar Picture
Once you are a member on our site and are logged in, you should update your information and your profile picture on the site. Your profile picture is called your Avatar.
To do this simply follow this easy steps.
- Click under the My CTOA section on the left the option called - SETTINGS
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- Once you find the image you wish to use (.jpg or .png image), simply click the OPEN in the pop up box to select it for upload.
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We do not have to resize your image to upload it, it will automatically resize it for you, however please keep the original size to a minimal size for posting online.
NOW GO INVITE SOME MEMBERS TO BE FRIENDS WITH YOU JUST LIKE ON FACEBOOK!
New owner JM284 needs help with Backhoe
I am looking for some guidance with the Proper setup of a 3 pt Backhoe. The previous owner made it clear he was not sure of the correct way to use the backhoe and in doing some work twisted the bars very bad. He did some straightening and mending to reinforce but they clearly need to be replaced. He showed me a short 12″ – 18″ bar and said that it should have been used in some fashion to support the hitch bars so they would not twist when operating the backhoe but I cannot find anything on this in the manual.
I can post some photos as soon as I join this group (trouble with PayPal).
Thanks in advance for your patients with my inexperience.
Chris-in-ma
By: Chris
Diagnosing Engine Difficulty – Diesel Tractors
The following suggestions are listed for your assistance. You can make simple adjustments on your tractor that will improve its operation and save you the time and expense of hiring someone to do it for you.
Always make one adjustment at a time, and if the adjustment made does not improve the condition, return to the original setting before proceeding to the next adjustment.
Hard Starting
- Cold air temperatures.
- Insufficient fuel.
- Air traps.
- Incorrect timing.
- Loss of compression.
- Dirty nozzles.
- Battery charge low.
- Valve clearance incorrect.
- Fuel transfer pump faulty.
- Fuel injection pump faulty.
- Fuel injection pump out of time.
- Engine Overheating
- Low water level in cooling system.
- Radiator clogged.
- Fan belt slipping.
- Collapsed radiator hose.
- Thermostat stuck.
- Engine overloaded.
- Diluted lubricating oil.
- Pulling heavy load at reduced RPM.
- Water pump impeller vanes broken.
Loss of Power
- Insufficient fuel.
- Air in fuel line.
- Restriction in fuel line.
- Clogged fuel filters.
- Transfer pump defective.
- Late injection pump timing.
- Loss of compression.
- Clogged air cleaner.
- Sticking valves.
- Valve clearance incorrect.
- Faulty nozzles.
- High idle RPM too slow.
Irregular Operation
- Governor control linkage binding.
- Compression pressure uneven.
- Valves not seating properly.
- Faulty fuel nozzles.
- Low fuel pressure.
- Low operating temperature.
- Fuel injection pump out of time.
- Excessive Exhaust Smoke
- Engine overloaded.
- Clogged air cleaner.
- Too much fuel to engine.
- Faulty fuel nozzles.
- Oil consumption.
Engine Knocking
- Engine overload.
- Incorrect fuel.
- Incorrect timing.
- Air cell plugged or leaking.
- Engine RPM too slow.
How To Select The Right Trailer Hitch
Selecting the right trailer hitch is dependent on the type of vehicle used for towing and the size and weight of trailer to be towed. Gross Trailer Weight and Trailer Tongue Weight determine the class of hitch.
Types of HitchesThere are two basic types of hitches: 1) Weight Carrying Hitches are the most popular and carry all the trailer tongue weight on the rear of the tow vehicle. They are commonly used to tow small & medium sized trailers. These hitches attach to the frame of the towing vehicle and provide a connection point between the towing vehicle and whatever you are towing; 2) Weight Distributing Hitches are recommended for heavier trailers because they even out the trailer load between the wheels of the tow vehicle and the wheels of the trailer, thus improving steering and brake control. Two parts are required: The Receiver, which bolts to the vehicle, and the spring bar assembly. Before deciding which type is right for you, consult vehicle manual for the manufacturer’s recommendation and the load capacity of your vehicle.
Hitch Ratings:
Hitches are rated as follows: C = Class / GTW = Gross Trailer Weight / TW = Tongue Weight
C GTW TW
I up to 2,000 lbs up to 200 lbs
II up to 3,500 lbs up to 300 lbs
III up to 5,000 lbs up to 500 lbs
IV up to 10,000 lbs up to 1,000 lbs
More About Gross Trailer Weight (GTW)Gross Trailer Weight, or GTW, is the total weight under fully-loaded trailer conditions, including food, water, gear, etc. Measure the GTW by placing the fully-loaded trailer on a commercial scale.
More About Trailer Tongue Weight (TW)Trailer Tongue Weight is the downward pressure that the tongue of a fully loaded trailer exerts on the hitch ball. Tongue weight can be measured on a commercial scale, or on a bathroom scale. Just place the weight of the trailers ball receiver on the scale (The trick is to make sure that the scale is at the same height as the hitch ball on the tow vehicle). Usually a small box or a cinder block will do the trick. Make sure the trailer is level and the wheels are chocked.
More About Vehicle Towing CapacityVehicle Towing Capacity is the manufacturer’s specification of the weight the vehicle is designed to tow. Although some hitches may have a higher stated capacity since they fit other vehicles, never exceed the manufacturer’s stated towing capacity. These specifications can usually be found in the vehicle owners manual or by calling a local dealership..
Chinese Tractors Brand Names and Manufacturer
We continue to add ot our list of Chinese tractor makers and most important the Chinese tractor brand names they are sold under. This list continues to evolve as we get more information.
List of Chinese tractor makers
-
Beiqi Foton Motor Co. aka Foton Heavy Industries
- Benye Tractor Corp. maybe aka Chenqdu Tianqi Machinery
- Dongfeng Agricultural Machinery Group Co. (DFAM)
- Hubei Shenniu Tractor Co.
- Jiangsu Jiangdong Group Co. Ltd.
- Jiangsu Yueda Yangcheng Tractor Plant
- Jiangling Tractor Co.
- Shandong Tractor Works-aka-Shandong worldbest Shantuo Co. Ltd.
- Weifeng Machine Works
- List of Chinese tractor brand names
- Allied by Benye Tractor? Corp.
- Agracat by Yancheng Tractor? Factory
- Ag Boss by Yancheng Tractor Factory ?
- Ag King by Yancheng Tractor Factory
- Ag Pro by Yancheng Tractor Factory
- Avenger by Dongfeng Agricultural Machinery Group
- Benye by Benye Tractor Corp.
- Bison by Shinniu Tractor Co.
- Bulldog by Jiangsu Jiangdong Group Co. Ltd.
- Bulldog by Dongfeng Agricultural Machinery Group Co.
- Emerybuilt by Yancheng Tractor Factory
- Europard by Beiqi Foton Motor Co
- Euroleopard by Beiqi Foton Motor Co..
- Farmboss by Yancheng Tractor Factory
- Farm Pro by Yancheng Tractor Factory
- Futian by Beiqui Foton Motor Co.
- Foton by Beiqi Foton Motor Co.
- Gold Horse by Yancheng Tractor Factory
- Hardy by Hubei Shenniu Tractor Co.
- Hercules by Benye Tractor Corp.
- Huanghai by Yangcheng Tractor Factory
- Iron Horse by Yancheng Tractor Factory
- Jepe by Yancheng Tractor Factory
- Jinma by Yancheng Tractor Factory
- Johnson by Beiqi Foton Motor Co.
- Kama by Shandong Tractor Works
- Lenar by Jiangling Tractor Co.
- Maverick by Weifeng Machine Works
- McConnell Mark by Yancheng Tractor Factory and Shandong Tractor Works
- Nallahey by Shandong Tractor Works
- NorTrac by Yancheng Tractor Factory
- Ranel by Jiangling Tractor Co.
- Rhino by Benye Tractor Corp.
- Ringo by Shandong Tractor Works
- Rural King Sold by Rural King Distributing built by Yancheng Tractor Factory
- Shenniu by Shenniu Tractor Co.
- Stallion by Yancheng Tractor Factory
- Taishan by Shandong Tractor Works
- Task Master by Dongfeng Agricultural Machinery Group Co.
- Terraplane by Dongfeng Agricultural Machinery Group Co.
- Tractor King by Yancheng Tractor Factory
- YTO by YTO Group Corporation, 154, Jianshe Road, Luoyang, China
- Workhourse by Yancheng Tractor Factory
- Worktrac by yancheng Tractor Factory
Note: Site members may use the comment option below to add other names you may be aware of to keep our list more updated.
Protect Your Hydraulic Cylinders From Rust
Many types of equipment have hydraulic cylinders. A hydraulic cylinder is a piston that slides within a cylindrical body. A rod attached to the piston passes through a seal at the end of the cylindrical body and moves in and out to do useful work. The rod on a hydraulic cylinder is highly polished plated steel. It must be uniformly smooth to provide a good seal with the cylinder body.
A common problem with hydraulic cylinders is rust and pitting of the cylinder rods. If equipment that incorporates hydraulic cylinders is stored outside with the cylinder rods extended, the rods are exposed to weathering. Eventually, the rods will begin to show specks of rust that develop into pits. Once rusting and pitting occur, the rod will destroy the cylinder seal the next time it is activated. Once pitted, it is virtually impossible to restore a cylinder rod to an acceptably smooth condition through repolishing. This problem of cylinder rod pitting is most common with hydraulic cylinders on equipment that is both stored outside and seldom used or used only seasonally. If the hydraulic cylinders are operated every few days, the rods will always have a thin coating of oil on them that will provide protection and rust will not start. Good examples are backhoes and bulldozers that are always stored out in the weather but are used almost daily. The solution to this problem is to prevent rust and pitting. There are three ways to accomplish this, and it is possible to use more than one of these approaches simultaneously. The best way to avoid corrosion and pitting of the cylinder rods is to store the implement with the cylinder rods retracted. If the rods are retracted, the sensitive plated surface of the rod will be inside the cylinder, immersed in hydraulic fluid and thus fully protected. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to store equipment with the cylinders retracted. In some cases, the cylinders must be extended to unhitch an implement or must be extended to oark the equipment. Another way to reduce the chance of corrosion is to park equipment with hydraulic cylinders inside a building where the cylinders are protected. This will significantly reduce corrosion and pitting, although humidity and condensation can still occur in some storage sheds. A final method of protecting cylinders is somewhat less effective, but can be used in all situations. The exposed cylinder rods can be coated with heavy grease whenever the equipment will not be used for a few weeks or longer. The grease should be as heavy and sticky (tacky) as possible. Wheel bearing grease is better for this purpose than general chassis grease because it tends to be tackier. A heavy coat of grease will provide several months of protection, but for a machine used only one season a year, it may be necessary to renew the grease every three to four months. Hydraulic cylinders can be ruined by pit rust if left extended and not protected. They are expensive to replace. You can protect your cylinders by (a) storing them in a retracted position, (b) storing them inside or (c) coating any exposed portion of the rods with heavy grease.
Cold Weather Diesel Engine Starting Tips
Starting diesel engines during cold weather can be frustrating if engines are not properly prepared for lower temperatures. Batteries that are weak may not crank the starter motor fast enough or long enough to start a cold engine.
As the temperature goes down, so does battery capacity. A battery that has all of its power available at 80 degrees F will have only about 46% available power at 0 degrees F. Plus, the engine will be 2.5 times harder to start at 0 degrees due to thicker oil and resistance to movement of internal moving parts. In effect, an engine is about five times harder to start at 0 degrees F than at 80 degrees F. Test weak or suspicious batteries under load before cold weather to help eliminate potential problems during busy times. If batteries need replacement, always replace with a battery equal to or more powerful than the original battery. Accessories such as radios, air conditioners, heaters and other high amperage devices put extra strain on batteries. Turn all of these devices off while the starter motor is in use.
Use glow plugs or block heaters on the engine for cold weather starts. Glow plugs heat the internal combustion chamber area to suitable temperatures for combustion. Otherwise, cold fuel sprayed into the chamber and onto the glow plugs can gel and adhere to these parts. Hard starting and inefficient combustion occur with potential for damage to plugs and cylinder heads.
Use Number 1 diesel fuel in cold weather. It is more volatile than Number 2 fuel and ignites more readily under cold conditions. Keep the fuel tank full to prevent condensation inside the tank. Water from condensation can freeze and plug fuel lines from the tank to the engine. Add winter diesel fuel additive to the fuel to lower the possibility of gelling and improve starting.
Store tractors inside tool sheds, barns, garages or other suitable locations that are heated or warmer than outside temperatures. Only a few degrees warmer temperature can make starting faster and easier. The warmer the battery is, the more power it can provide to the starter motor to crank the engine. The warmer the engine oil is, the thinner it will be and have less resistance to moving engine parts. Make sure you are using the proper viscosity oil recommended for your engine for cold temperatures. If you cannot store engines inside or in a heated area, install a block heater on the engine. To save time and electricity, put the block heater on an electrical timer set to come on a couple of hours before you plan to start the engine.
If you suspect fuel has gelled from cold temperatures, change the fuel filter and warm the fuel (wait for the outside temperature to rise, use a block heater or put the tractor inside a heated area) before attempting to start the engine. Gelled fuel in the filter can block the flow of fuel from the tank to the injector pump.
After starting the engine on a cold day, allow the engine to warm up a few minutes before putting the tractor under load. Proper engine operation temperatures assure more efficient fuel combustion and may prevent damage to cold engine parts. Engine oil flows more readily at operating temperatures and allows proper lubrication of upper engine parts and areas.
Front-End Loader Safety Tips
Front-end loaders are valuable, time-saving additions to tractors, especially during the busy haying season. The tractor-loader combination can also be dangerous if not operated properly. Loaders can change the center of gravity of the tractor and therefore affect the stability of a tractor, creating the potential for a rollover. The following guidelines are simple safety tips for tractor operators when using a front-end loader.
* Only install loaders designed and approved by the tractor manufacturer.
* Use only manufacturer-approved attachments for handling large hay bales. You will need a grapple fork or spear to secure a large hay bale.
* Do not carry big hay bales in an open front-end scoop.
* Use loaders only for the jobs they were designed to perform.
* Do not use a loader for removing fence posts, towing, or knocking things down.
* Use a ballast to correctly balance the loader and tractor, front to rear.
* Move tractor wheels to the widest practical setting for increased stability.
* Familiarize yourself with the operator?s manual for both the loader and tractor.
* Use only a tractor that is equipped with a rollover protection structure (ROPS) and always wear a safety belt.
* Hydraulic leaks can cause severe injury. Check for pressure leaks in hoses and valves with a piece of cardboard, not your hand.
* Do not exceed suggested load limits and load the bucket evenly to prevent tipovers.
* Carry loads at a low height and at slow speeds.
* Do not move or swing a load over people in a work area.
* Do not walk or work under a raised loader.
* Do not work from or ride on a loader.
* Avoid electrical lines, loose gravel and holes when maneuvering a tractor with a front-end loader.
* When working on inclines, be extra careful. Carry loads forward when going up hill and back down a hill when carrying a load.
* When loader work is complete, remove the loader before using the tractor for other jobs.
* Always lower the loader to the ground when the tractor is parked.
* Park detached loaders on a hard, level surface. Balance and stabilize the loader when it is detached.

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