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November 19, 2011
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Bob Rooks
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| Lifetime Member Platinum Elite | posts 868 | |
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Post edited 5:45 pm – November 19, 2011 by Bob Rooks
I don't use a block heater but if I did I would use the thread-in immersion type and install it in the left side of the engine block where the large pipe plug is.
This is a sample, but Mercedes Benz uses the same type and would be metric threads.
 
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November 20, 2011
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pepage
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| Lifetime Member Expert | posts 119 | |
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My friend stopped by yesterday and I showed him my draft procedure on re-torque and valve clearance. His only comment was he sets his valve clearance with the engine running. Is this a Coast Guard training thing or do most experienced mechanics set the valve clearance with the engine running? The operative word is experienced. I will never consider myself a mechanic much less an experienced mechanic. So Grizz, no worries, engine will not be running when I check valve clearance.
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November 20, 2011
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Tinbender
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| Lifetime Member Elite | posts 385 | |
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While it does give the advantage of setting while the engine is hot and everything has expanded as far as it will, I don't see a major advantage to it. It is easier to do on a strait 3,4,6,or 8 cyl engine that idles low. It can make a mess on a V6 or 8 due to the tilt of the head. Many companies make rocker clips to keep the hot oil from squirting everywhere while adjusting, not really a problem on these low idling engines. Then you have the overhead cam engines on most cars today that make this a moot point, unless you can find a way to adjust and remove/install shims under the camshaft (which requires removing said camshafts) while the engine is running.
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November 20, 2011
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Bob Rooks
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| Lifetime Member Platinum Elite | posts 868 | |
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I was doing it long before I went in the Coast Guard, but when we did tune-ups on the 6HN49's we used dial indicators for the injectors and feeler gauges for the valves – engine stopped, but then the Coast Guard's engineer traing back then was severly lacking.
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November 21, 2011
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tractorfreak
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| Lifetime Member | posts 30 | |
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Post edited 5:11 pm – November 21, 2011 by tractorfreak
From what I am seeing Chinese Tractors and dozers have been band from import because of EPA standards? Anyone heard anything on this?
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November 21, 2011
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Little_Grizzly
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| Lifetime Member Expert | posts 184 | |
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Post edited 5:34 pm – November 21, 2011 by Little_Grizzly
What I've heard is that after Yuchai closed the plant and it re-opened as a private company, the prices when up quite a bit. I can imagine the added mark-up of making the engines pass EPA puts it over the top financially. Other options become more attractive.
I see Tytan Tractor is still selling their version so that means they are still coming in at least in one form or another.
Maybe one of the vendors here could post and tell us about the other Chinese tractors.
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November 21, 2011
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Bob Rooks
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| Lifetime Member Platinum Elite | posts 868 | |
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I looked at Tytan, even called them.
Asked how can you get 10,000 lbs. of down force on your three-point hitch when the whole tractor only weighs ~7,000 lbs.? Answered with silence.
Asked how big an alternator is on the engine to power a 9,500 lb. winch? Answered with silence.
Asked why they advertise a hydrostatic drive when it is not? Answered with silence. (Had this same discussion with Bolton Equipment and Circle-G who changed their ad. Bolton was an ass about it but eventually changed their ad.)
Now I'll have to call them back and ask about the "New stronger 3100 engine", and if they stock any dozer parts. 
I hate sales people that lie!  
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November 21, 2011
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Little_Grizzly
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| Lifetime Member Expert | posts 184 | |
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ah yes well I wasn't making any endorsements of the company or their product. Only to use them as an example of a company that seems to be currently bringing in Yuchai dozers.
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November 21, 2011
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Bob Rooks
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| Lifetime Member Platinum Elite | posts 868 | |
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Sorry I got on my soap box. The Tytan/Yuchai does have some good features, but I just come up to full load and speed when I hear the name.
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November 27, 2011
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tractorfreak
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| Lifetime Member | posts 30 | |
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Post edited 6:16 am – November 27, 2011 by tractorfreak
I have a question for phil. Phil you added a copper disk (0.64” OD and 0.04” thick with 1/16” hole in center) to each tilt cylinder port to smooth blade tilting action.
Did you machine those copper disk or were you able to obtain them somewhere and drill the hole in the center? Did you have any after thoughts on this?
Sam
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November 27, 2011
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pepage
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| Lifetime Member Expert | posts 119 | |
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Post edited 4:46 pm – November 28, 2011 by pepage
Sam,
Started with two all copper pennies and sanded them flat. Ground and filed to proper diameter i.e. where they would fit in the female fittings. Bob Rooks was concerned that copper would "dish" but checked once and saw no evidence of any dishing.
I also purchased some thin copper at my local hardware store and made copper washers with the idea of making steel disks. One side of the steel disk would seal on the o-ring (male fitting) and the copper (crush) washer on top of the steel disk would provide the seal on the female (flat surface) side.
Phil
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