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December 9, 2011
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pepage
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| Lifetime Member Expert | posts 119 | |
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Bob Rooks or Leon (mailman55) would have the best advice but in my humble opinion the tear down will be the easy part. Putting it back together will be another story. I had to remove the casting that holds my radiator for repair and I do not think I could have put it together without my hydraulic spreader. (HF 10 ton portable hydraulic equipment.) Another would be putting on your tracks. Remember reading about someone using a HF pull back ram and custom hooks. I built something out of 1" all thread and five nuts. Welded one nut on the end of the all thread so I could turn with a socket wrench. Then I made hooks out of 1/4" metal and welded two nuts to each hook. Have not tried it yet but I am ready just in case I throw a track.
Phil
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December 9, 2011
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Bob Rooks
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| Lifetime Member Platinum Elite | posts 868 | |
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Post edited 10:42 pm – December 9, 2011 by Bob Rooks
Greg,
Your plan looks good. Here are my suggestions, in order. Leon may have others.
2) Dismantle the backhoe (Assume you mean to just drop and set aside.)
1) Remove blade
3) Remove ROPS
4) Remove all actuators/controls/hoses
6) Remove saddle bags
5) Remove tracks (Drop swing frames at this point if you're going deep. Block transmission and differential case.)
7) Remove radiator (need to be repaired. has a leak)
10) Remove engine
9) Remove fuel tank
8) Remove dash board
As far as the tracks go, make sure the track tensioner is backed off all the way (the yoke shaft on the idler screwed back into the spring housing.). A quick and cheap way to bring the ends together is by using a couple of 1/4" choker chains and a load binder – either type works well.
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December 12, 2011
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gdw4078
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| Lifetime Member | posts 20 | |
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Bob
If you remember at the beginning I was going to do a total tear down of the bulldozer. Well this will include the BH. She will get new hoses and a controller like you BH has, and a paint job. Cylinder don't leak externally, so no overhaul of those I am thinking.
SO this is what I have done so far
0) Battery is out
1) WD 40 every bolt and nut
2) Bucket and arms are removed from BH and bucket cylinder.
3) Blade lift cylinders removed
4) Blade angle cylinders removed
5) Working on removing the blade
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December 12, 2011
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Bob Rooks
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| Lifetime Member Platinum Elite | posts 868 | |
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Excellent! 
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December 13, 2011
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RichWaugh
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| Lifetime Member Elite | posts 280 | |
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If you're using the WD-40 as a penetrating oil, a much more effective solution is a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. I haven't found anything that loosens frozen bolts better, and I've tried all the proprietary products like B'Laster, Liquid Wrench, Kroil, etc. Doesn't seem to matter what type of ATF you use, either. You need to keep it in a pump can that has Viton seals or it will eat the rubber.
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December 16, 2011
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gdw4078
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| Lifetime Member | posts 20 | |
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Latest. My overhead crain kick ass. Makes all of this so easy. Here is a pic of the blade after removal. Moving this out the way was a snap..
 
ROPS was a little more difficult to remove. I had to remove it in two steps. First I had to add a second lift to my roof trusses
I used this lift to lift the ROPS off the sockets then I transfered to the crain and lowered it to the floor. Again my crain kicks add
So here is what she looks like today.
Weekend is coming and I will be working on here both days. We will see how far I get
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December 16, 2011
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Little_Grizzly
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| Lifetime Member Expert | posts 184 | |
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WOW! You have been doing a LOT of work. I agree that overhead crane looks like it's indispensable. 
Kinda scary seeing it all taken apart like that….and the worst is yet to come!
Good job and thanks for keeping us posted. Personally I'm looking forward to seeing what the final drives look like.
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December 16, 2011
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Bob Rooks
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| Lifetime Member Platinum Elite | posts 868 | |
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Nice work Greg.
Looks like you didn't have to rotate the ROPS after all.
Keep 'em coming. 
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February 8, 2012
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gdw4078
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| Lifetime Member | posts 20 | |
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Quick update
Saddle bags removed
Tracks removed
All that is left to remove is the fuel tank and dash.
First stuff to repair will be the radiator and cracks in the blade arms, Then I will move onto the clutch, brakes and sterring pads.
Picture coming soon
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February 9, 2012
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Bob Rooks
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| Lifetime Member Platinum Elite | posts 868 | |
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Post edited 8:13 am – February 10, 2012 by CTOA
Glad to hear you're making good progress.
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February 10, 2012
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Bob Rooks
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| Lifetime Member Platinum Elite | posts 868 | |
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Post edited 9:50 am – February 10, 2012 by Bob Rooks
Proof positive that Mr. Mandelman is working on a solution to his problem by managing permissives.
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February 15, 2012
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gdw4078
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| Lifetime Member | posts 20 | |
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update 2/15
Worked on her last night. As you can see I have alot of stuff removed
Here is the front removed. 
Took the cluch plate off just to see what it looked like inside
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February 15, 2012
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Little_Grizzly
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| Lifetime Member Expert | posts 184 | |
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Wow. Now those are scary pics! Well done. You are being thorough.
What is your ultimate plan here? Total overhaul? Even the paint?
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February 17, 2012
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Bob Rooks
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| Lifetime Member Platinum Elite | posts 868 | |
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Post edited 11:53 am – February 17, 2012 by Bob Rooks
Excellent work Greg. Those overhead cranes are really nice to work with.
I see you have what appears to be a shuttle clutch with a very bad gasket  .
I still can't post pictures here so they will be on the other website when I'm ready.
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February 21, 2012
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Bob Rooks
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| Lifetime Member Platinum Elite | posts 868 | |
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This is not an attempt in any way to detract members from CTOA, but rather just a means to share my pictures and videos. It's still in the development stage, adding pics & stuff.
Stop by for a visit at facebook.com/yuchaidozer
If Hal removes the link just email or IM me.
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February 24, 2012
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gdw4078
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| Lifetime Member | posts 20 | |
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Okay yall, Need some help. Got The clutch torn down last night and found this. Lots of wear damage…
This to means means I have a shuttle problem. Frozen on the shaft. Anyone seen this? Already ordered a new part.
Next looking at the clutch plates I have no idea if they need to be replaced. I have no idea what the original thickness were. Any one have that number? I was thinking I would replace the clutch rings since I already have it torn down, but why spend the money if I don't have too.
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February 24, 2012
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Bob Rooks
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| Lifetime Member Platinum Elite | posts 868 | |
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I don't recognize the part, is there a reference number in the parts book?
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February 27, 2012
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gdw4078
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| Lifetime Member | posts 20 | |
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Post edited 10:30 am – February 27, 2012 by gdw4078
Bob figured I figured out what caused the wear. The part is the shift arm for the clutch shuttle. The shuttle was frozen to the drive shaft.
I had to use a gear puller and lots of lube to get it off the shaft. Here is a pic of the two parts together
Here is what the new part looks like
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February 27, 2012
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gdw4078
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| Lifetime Member | posts 20 | |
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February 27, 2012
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Little_Grizzly
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| Lifetime Member Expert | posts 184 | |
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I'm speechless. Dear god! That was a dozer at one point? haha
I'm beyond impressed. You are taking this seriously. I think you're going to have a fine machine on your hands when you're done.
One thing: That new shift fork for the shuttle clutch… it doesn't seem to have the splines on the interior that the original does. Do you need a new shaft as well?
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