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January 29, 2012
| Bob Rooks
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| Lifetime Member Platinum Elite | posts 868 | |
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Is it me or is the Backhoe Sub Frame thread all screwed up?
Is this site infected again?
Hal??
  
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January 29, 2012
| RichWaugh
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| Lifetime Member Elite | posts 280 | |
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Well this is another fine mess you've gotten us into, Ollie!   
There's definitely a problem of some sort there, but I have no idea why, of course. I suppose Hal will fix it. He must get sick of having to pick up after us…
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January 29, 2012
| SpringValley
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| Lifetime Member Expert | posts 176 | |
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I went to post a simple text response and that mess is what displayed. This site needs help. I am not going to waste anymore time on it.
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January 29, 2012
| Bob Rooks
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| Lifetime Member Platinum Elite | posts 868 | |
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I am planning on doing several videos of dozer steering clutch/brake issues augmented with still pics. It doesn't appear at this point that I can do it on this site.
I'm sure Hal is probably up to his proverbial butt in alligators, but a word from him would be appropriate now.
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January 29, 2012
| Len10
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| Lifetime Member | posts 47 | |
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Post edited 11:38 pm – January 29, 2012 by Len10
Starting where I left off before the SNAFU:
"Another reason for reinforcing the FEL subframe are two cutouts on the rectangular tube of the subframe. One is shown in the included picture. The other is on the inner side of the same tube toward the rear. As you can see from the picture, it is very roughly cut. It came directly from the factory this way. Does anyone know what they could be for?"
 
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January 30, 2012
| Smalljobs
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| Lifetime Member | posts 36 | |
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What's wrong with this thread? Why are there two of them? Does this site offer instructions anywhere about uploading photos. I tried to help this thread recently and expressed my confusion about photos. Result: no answer and now we have duplicate threads.
Why is CTOA so difficult?
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January 30, 2012
| Bob Rooks
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| Lifetime Member Platinum Elite | posts 868 | |
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Post edited 6:54 am – January 30, 2012 by Bob Rooks
First of all Len, I think you're doing a great job.
As for the cut-outs, I can only imagine they were made for access. No other reason. I would fish plate over. And they greatly compromise the section modulus strength of the tube.
Steve,
The other thread died on the vine, no way to post to it. When I started this thread it was an inquiry, and not meant as a continuance because of the category it's in. However, as far as I'm concerned it can continue here, or Hal can fix the site and move it where it belongs.
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January 31, 2012
| Len10
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| Lifetime Member | posts 47 | |
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Thanks Bob for the encouragement. I'll post some pictures of the subframe after I start fabricating the parts.
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April 30, 2012
| Len10
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| Lifetime Member | posts 47 | |
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I finally cut most of the parts for the subframe. Thanks Rich for the tip about the Longevity plasma cutter. Due to my inexperience with plasma cutting, I spent a lot of time with my angle grinder. I'll post pictures as soon as the parts are welded together.
In the mean time, does anyone have a good source for hex bolts? Due to the modifications I made the u bolts that attach the ROP are not long enough. I want to replace them with hex bolts (1/2-13 x 11 inches and 1/2-13 x 8 inches, grade 8, yellow zinc). Similar metric sizes would be OK too. The only source I can find that sells zinc plated bolts that long charges $15-20 per bolt. I found many suppliers that charge about $2 per bolt, but they are not yellow zinc plated (although they are grade 8).
When I'm ready to post pictures should I continue with this thread even though it's in the wrong category (the original thread became corrupted)?
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May 1, 2012
| Bob Rooks
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| Lifetime Member Platinum Elite | posts 868 | |
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You can start a new thread if you want I guess.
I'm surprized you found yellow zinc plated bolts at all because most all zinc plated products are silver colored. I think you will have better luck searching for di-chromate plated or cadmium "cad" plated fasteners, both of which are yellow-ish gold in color.
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May 1, 2012
| Len10
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| Lifetime Member | posts 47 | |
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Post edited 9:37 pm – May 1, 2012 by Len10
I think most bolt suppliers use the term "yellow zinc" to refer to zinc plating followed by a chromate conversion coating. My understanding is zinc plated bolts always have a chromate conversion coating since zinc plating alone would corrode quickly when exposed to moisture. A zinc coating that appears "silver colored" is referred to as "clear zinc" or "blue zinc" and is less corrosion resistant than yellow zinc. I would be happy with a clear zinc plated bolt since I won't be using my tractor anywhere salt water.
I don't think cadmium plated fasteners are readily available anymore because of the toxicity of cadmium. Even the type of chromate conversion coating used has changed because of the toxicity of hexavalent chromate. The newer chromates are less toxic, but also less corrosion resistant. At least that is my rudimentary understanding.
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May 1, 2012
| RichWaugh
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| Lifetime Member Elite | posts 280 | |
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If'n ya wants corrosion resistance, just use hot-dipped galvanized fasteners. Much thicker coating and much more resistant to rusting.
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May 1, 2012
| Bob Rooks
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| Lifetime Member Platinum Elite | posts 868 | |
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Post edited 11:04 pm – May 1, 2012 by Bob Rooks
Just get the black carburized grade 8 bolts and coat them liberally with Cold Galvanizing Compound (spray can) before and after assembly, then finish paint with two coats. I have used this at sea for years.
You can get the bolts hot dipped also – for a nominal fee. 
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May 2, 2012
| RichWaugh
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| Lifetime Member Elite | posts 280 | |
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Yes, you can get the bolts hot-dipped, but you'll need to purchase ready-made HDG nuts for them – they have to be slightly oversize to accommodate the thickness of the hot dip galvanizing on the bolt threads. Try to put a regular nut on an HDG bolt and you'll quickly see what I'm talking about. You can guess how I learned this, I'm sure. 
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May 2, 2012
| Len10
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| Lifetime Member | posts 47 | |
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Post edited 8:57 pm – May 2, 2012 by Len10
My understanding is that grade 8 bolts should not be hot-dipped galvanized secondary to the risk of hydrogen embrittlement. I'm not sure how critical the use of grade 8 bolts is, but I want to over engineer the sub frame. I have no experience in structural engineering, so I'm basically flying by the seat of my pants.
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May 2, 2012
| RichWaugh
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| Lifetime Member Elite | posts 280 | |
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Galvanizing temps shouldn't be hot enough to cause hydrogen migration into the grain boundaries of the steel, I wouldn't think. But I'm NOT a metallurgist.
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May 3, 2012
| Bob Rooks
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| Lifetime Member Platinum Elite | posts 868 | |
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From what I know, hot-dip galvanizing of grade 8 bolts is not a problem.
The question I was going to ask but has already been raised is: Why use grade 8 bolts? No real reason in this application as far as I'm concerned. Grade 5 is quite sufficient as you can see, and this or it's metric equivalent is used by most equipment manufacturers except in very special applications.
See ASTM bolt properties here (probably not what you expected).
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May 3, 2012
| Bob Rooks
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| Lifetime Member Platinum Elite | posts 868 | |
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I know it's just symantics, but you say that you want to "over-engineer" the sub frame. In order to do that, you must first engineer it, and then exceed those specifications. I think what you really meant was that you want to "over-build" it.
In any event, here is some useful info that many of us take for granted in understanding.
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May 3, 2012
| Len10
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| Lifetime Member | posts 47 | |
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Post edited 10:10 pm – May 3, 2012 by Len10
Here is a good explanation for which high strength bolts can be hot-dip galvanized. According to the table at the bottom, grade 8 bolt can't be galvanized.
Bob, you're absolutely right, I should have used the term "over-build." Equipment manufacturers engineer their products so they know or should know what size and grade of bolts are appropriate to use. Since I don't have that knowlege I would rather spend a little more a bolt that has 25% higher tensile strength.
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May 3, 2012
| Bob Rooks
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| Lifetime Member Platinum Elite | posts 868 | |
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OK, but I've personally witnessed hot-dipped galvanized grade 8 bolts and nuts. Someone else broke the rules, not me. 
I think you are doing a great job on the sub frame and if it were me, I'd just go with grade 5 zinc coated and paint it. If you have issues with clamping power you can use fine threads. It's not like you will be using it on an ocean beach all year long. Or will you? 
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