Thanks Al,

My Yuchai Dozer is a 2007 model and has about 120 hours on it. I have tried to adjust the clutches/brakes and must say that there must be an easier way! The dozer will not steer to the right or only does very slightly. I did have some water and oil (a very small amount) in the brake compartment.

The main question that I have is; how easy is it to pull the final drive and steering clutch? Looks like the saddle bags have to come off?

Thanks,

Pablo

Aside from Al Lamore, there is Leon "mailman55" who is also a very good source of Yuchai/Guilin dozer knowledge.

On mine, which is a 2005 Yuchai model, it isn't necessary to lift the saddlebag or drop the swing frame to access the final drive or steering clutches and brake band. But if you feel you need the room to work, then by all means do so. The situation may be different if you have the fiberglass saddlebags.
I believe you have the final drive confused with the differential. There is a final drive on each side at the rear of the chassis (which consists of the front engine mounts, engine block, drive clutch housing, transmission housing, and differential/ lift-box housing) which include a small drive pinion gear and a large driven "bull" gear.
There is no "easy way" to adjust the clutches and brakes, the decks must come up. I fabricated a jig to bolt in situ to make adjustments as if the decks were in place. I adjust mine by the book, and for me there is no need to improvise or deviate from that procedure. Everything works quite well - as it should.

If you wanted an easy way to adjust the clutches, you would have a dozer with joy stick hydraulic steering, wouldn't be on the Chinese tractor forum, and would have paid at least three to four times as much. One must remember that there is no free lunch - you pay one way or another.
Sorry.

Ok, I got the clutches and brakes adusted. The left is a little more responsive than the right? I may need to tighten up the right brake a little more. One problem that I have is that the dozer 'drifts' ever so slightly to the left when running in a straight line? Can this be adjusted??? what would cause such a thing...a slipping drive clutch on the right side?

Thanks,

Pablo

The left brake band may be set too tight, pulling it to the left.

You may also have oil or grease in your right steering clutch or on the brake lining.

Another thing to check is the toe-in of the swing frames (there shouldn't be any at all). Measure from the center of the front trunion mount (grease fitting) to the inside side of the swing frame (carrier) - the distances should be the same, give or take 1/4". Before taking the measurement, drive the dozer straight ahead one track length revolution without the use of steering clutches or brakes.

Bob: My Email is <a href="mailto:nanapljr3@sbcglobal.net.">nanapljr3@sbcglobal.net.</a> Phone is <br />209-754-9590. Yes you are right about adjusting the steering<br />clutches and brakes. I use a small hill to test the brakes, which <br />I have previously backed off the adjustment, and then after adjusting the pedal height and stearing clutches for even turning,<br />I adjust the brakes to have equal stopping power at about<br />1-1/2 inches above the transom. I did this the other day<br />for my dozer/loader and it is perfect.<br /> Sorry I have not checked this website in awhile I have been so busy. <br /> This older dozer had a problem with the shuttle clutch to<br />transmission coupler and I couldn't get the correct part from<br />China. The internal splines were mis-machined to fit the <br />transmission shaft #1 and they only kept sending me the newer<br />external 8 splined coupler whereas I had the older 6 spline outside<br />coupler. I finally, after the fourth try, got a good internal splined<br />coupler and had this cut in half and mated to the old 6 splined outside coupler and TIG welded. Very strong.<br />The dozer/loader is running great and no problems.<br />Yes, I do have a manual and it is available. It's very valuable<br />to anyone working on this machine. The pictures are of very great value in repairing and understanding this machine.<br />Al Lamore

I use heavy floor jacks to remove the transmission/rear<br />drive from the back of the dozer. There are bolts holding <br />the cab to the transmission/rear end. You will have to use bolt<br />cutters to snip off one the small bolts on each side of the track<br />pin and drop the tracks. Use two come-alongs to reattach<br />the tracks after other repairs completed. I also use two farm<br />jacks to help support and position the cab when taking the<br />rear end out. Also you will have to unbolt the shuttle clutch<br />to transmission bolts. When reinstalling make sure the front<br />transmission stud bolts are firmly installed to the transmission or <br />else they can strip out and cause you a lot of problems. Use<br />red Locktite upon reinstalling cab and shuttle clutch to transmission stud bolt nuts.<br /> My telephone number is 209-754-9590 and Email is <br /><a href="mailto:nanapljr3@sbcglobal.net.">nanapljr3@sbcglobal.net.</a> My manual shows the breakdown in pictures of shuttle clutch, transmission and final drives.<br /> Sorry I have not checked CTOA in quite awhile.<br /><br />Al Lamore<br />

Pablo: Drift might be due to track tension. If one side is tighter<br />than the other the machine would have a tendency to pull<br />to that side. Be careful when adjusting track tension especially<br />when working on steep hills. You will get the hang of it. Also<br />keep your track rollers well greased.<br />Al Lamore