Hello all,

I just picked up my used (new to me) Yuchai Dozer and the right steering clutch is slow to respond...and at higher RPM it does not respond at all?

Does this sound like an adjustment problem or do I need to tear into it to check the the steering clutch?

Thanks,

Pablo

Check your adjustments.

finally got around to working on the steering clutches. I found some gear oil in the brake compartment? Is this normal? it was not a lot, maybe two to three table spoons. Does this indicate a seal is going out?

Thanks

Pablo

No, it's not normal, and yes it does indicate a seal is going out, in fact it's already gone. These are not wet clutches. Now you will have to determine if it's transmission/differential oil or final drive oil. I assume you discovered the oil by removing the steering compartment drain plugs.
It doesn't take much oil to render the clutches almost useless, but you have probably saturated the brake band too. Now you will have to remove the discs for cleaning and inspection and the brake band for a reline, and in the process replace the final drive seal. You may or may not have to replace any clutch discs, but the brake lining for sure. And no, you can't clean the brake lining in situ with brake-clean.

Bob,

Thanks for the response. I was afraid that was the case. Yes, I found the oil by removing the drain plug...lots of water and a little oil, appeared to be 90w gear oil. How would I tell the source?

It looks like the removal of the final drive could be somewhat challenging as it is sandwiched between the chassis and the rear differential?

How best is it removed, by raising the dozer chassis or dropping the rear differential?

Any other insight would be helpful.

Thanks,

Pablo

If it's 90W gear oil then it might be the transmission/differential seal. I say that because I use 80W-90 gear oil in the transmission/differential and 85W-140 in the final drives. You might be able to determine which seal is leaking by removing the cover of the steering compartment (it will have to come off anyway).
To start, jack up the tractor far enough to remove the track and firmly block it so it won't tip (don't block it under the final drive), then remove the track and sprocket. You should also remove the seat. The final drive is that component just behind the sprocket, and fastens to the transmission/differential housing (chassis/TPH lift box) which contains the steering clutch compartment.

There should have been no water in the steering compartment. Maybe you wash it too much.

Pablo: I have a lot of experience with this smaller dozer with
shuttle clutch. How old is your dozer? I have completely taken
this machine apart and put it back together. I wrote a manual
for it with pictures. There are a lot of things that can go wrong.
I have my own way of adjusting the brakes/steering clutches that
works very well, that's because I understand how they work.
Al Lamore
nanapljr3@sbcglobal.net

Quote:
Al,
With all due respect, there is only one method of adjusting the steering clutches/brakes; The clutches MUST disengage before the brakes begin to apply. This allows the tracks to free-wheel prior to the brake application (otherwise you will burn up a steering clutch or break something). This is a normal part of the steering operation. The small Hitachi, JD, Mitsubishi, and Case dozers with manual steering all operate in a similar manner. Caterpillar never had a single operation to steer with. This does not apply to Magnatrack.

Al,
Is your manual available? For sale? I would love to see it, as I'm sure a lot of other folks would too.