Most folks are used to plugging in their lower radiator hose heaters and just leaving them on for hours or even days so their tractor is ready to go. I installed one of the larger Katz 'tank' heaters last winter, somewhere around 1150W I think, and am really pleased that I can plug it in for 15 minutes when it's 10 degrees F outside and start the 254. Well, just for grins I plugged it in this morning and left it for an hour to see how much difference it would make. When I came back out the temp guage showed 170F and the entire radiator was also heated up! I never considered the possibility that I could conceivabley be able to overheat the engine without even starting it! Gonna' have to watch the clock from now on. I believe some of these heaters actually have thermostats in them that will shut them down at a certain temp. I doubt if mine has one though, will have to look that up. Hmmm, if I run the heater for an hour instead of 15 minutes, and leave the cab heater blower fan running I may be able to pre-heat the cab!!

Same thing with an external oil pan heater. When correctly sized to the sump capacity, they're designed to keep the oil at or under 125F. But put too big a one on the pan, and you risk coking the oil

//greg//

If its the Big Kats tank type, I think it has a thermostat in it. I just got through looking at them earlier today. Thought they said it cuts off at 170-175 F. Might be wrong.. If it doesn't have a thermostat in it, then maybe you could plug it into something like this:

Farm Innovators Thermo Cube Thermostatically Controlled Outlets Model TC-3 - On at 35°F, Off approx. 45°F

Thermo cube



On second thought, it would only cut it on and off when the temp was cold, not if the coolant got too hot... never mind.


Aubrey

Thought I saw it somewhere that they have a thermostat,, not sure if all have them.

Kats Tank heater

* Made of die cast Aluminum * One piece molding * Tapered outlet design, pushes coolant more efficiently than other styles * Available in 850W, 1000W 1500W & 2000W 120V (also available in 240V. Call for special order.) * Thermostaticly controlled 135° - 175° * 5' HPN 105° C cord * Uses versatile strap type mounting * CSA Approved


Aubrey

I didn't keep the packaging or documentation on my heater, a bad habit of mine. So I comandeered one of my wife's little mirrors, because the way I have it mounted the label is on the back of the heater, and took a close look at it. It is a 1200W model 13120. I think mine be an older generation of heaters 'cause I saw current descriptions that do not list a 1200W model and claim they have check valves, which I am certain mine does not have. So I am simply going to run the thing for a few hours today, checking it every 15 minutes or so, and see if it tops out and holds around 170. Then I will know that I do not have to worry about.
Thinking outside the box, here's a slightly related topic for discussion with a different twist! I had seriously considered a PTO operated generator but could not get clear of the fact that there is no way, without extreme stress to my battery and starter, to start my 2008 NT254 without pre-heating, which requires power that I would not have at the time. Don't laugh, OK go ahead if you wish, but what about some form of propane torch heated heater? A metal pipe through which the engine coolant runs, heat the pipe with a torch, start engine?? Maybe multiple smaller pipes mounted to a flat top plate, close together and parallel to each other, and a propane torch with one of those attachments that spreads the flame out to a wide flat flame. The plate would help trap the heat, multiple pipes yields greater surface area for heat exchange. Maybe copper pipe, since copper transfers heat better than common 'black' pipe. Or what if I just torched the tank of my Kat's heater? Of couse either way I would have to be careful where the flame went after it bounces of the heater, I'd need a chimney on my tractor!! Bottom line, has anybody ever seen a block heater that does not require house current? Of course a means of starting the 254 in 0 degree weather without any pre-heating would be simpler but I've all the tricks I've heard about and it simply ain't workin'. Thanks, all.

Somewhere when I was searching for the tank heaters, I ran across one that was LP heated vice electric. Not a bad idea, although I would not use it. Can't remember which web page it was on..

When I do get a tank type heater, I'm thinking of just putting it on a timer, so it cuts on and off for a set time. I'll probably still have the Solar setup, so that would limit my "ON" time.

I'm cheap!!

Aubrey

Grumpy, I have the same engine heater that you do. If I leave mine plugged in for an extended period the temp gauge will be right at normal operating temp when I turn the key on. It's fine and does not overheat anything.

As for your other question about a gas fired engine heater. I have installed lots of them on logging equipment where there was no power available. One brand I used in the past was Stewart Warner South Wind.


Larry

I had a 1953 Dodge M-37 that had the S/W South Wind heater mounted on the right front fender. It would drive you out of the canvas covered cab in about a minute.

S/W SOUTH WIND HEATERS

OK Grumpy, here ya go! This will take a little doing on your part but it will work.
Get a 50 gallon household water heater that is propane fired, and set the thermostat for 120°. Then get a hot water circulating pump (Grundfos makes the best). Install a 1/2" pipe fitting in the top tank of your radiator with a quick connect coupling on it and run it to the cold side of the water heater. Next, run a hose from the hot side of the water heater to the circulating pump, and from the pump to a quick connect fitting attached to the cover plate at the rear of the cylinder head (insulate the hoses too).
You will need to have the water heater filled with your tractor coolant and if you elect to use a used water heater then I would suggest using a jacket water filter also. You will also want to add extra insulation blankets on the water heater and throw a blanket over the tractor hood. The benefits of this arrangement are obvious, and it will work. Once the engine and water heater have reached thermal equilibrium the cost to maintain the temperature will be quite minimal.


And an added bonus; you can illuminate your work area with propane lamps (batteries not required).