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Alternator Sub for Jinma 284

Forum Forums Tractor Modifications Alternator Sub for Jinma 284

This topic contains 9 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by Bob Rooks Bob Rooks 1 year, 11 months ago.

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  • #45598
    Jackpine
    Jackpine
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    Somewhere in the archives we had members who were able to retro fit an AC Delco alternator to the 284. I put a set of aftermarket 55w halogen lights on mine and when they are turned on along with the headlights, my battery is always at a slight discharge. No matter what the RPM. Not enough output. So after several hours of work, I turn it off and then there isn’t enough battery power to crank it again 5 seconds later. Have to either charge battery or jump start and run without all the lights on to recharge the battery. P in the A.

    So… since I can’t find the old archives on this “new format” site, could someone enlighten this idiot as to the Model # of the replacement alt and any special instructions as to what they had to do to install it? Thanx.

  • #45602

    DavidPrivett
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    yes I remember those and there was not much that bracket wise you needed to add. But with the delco you need to add a I think # 6 wire to the batt. and I can not remember what they did with the sense wire. I did a 8n ford and there we added a strap from a 2 prong plug to a post which makes it charge all the time that away rpm to get the alt. to kick in are not required. That tractor is next neighbor over I can go look at it if this is the way you want to go.

  • #45605
    Bob Rooks
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    It is advantageous to install a smaller pulley on the Delco alternator so it will charge at low r/m’s. The Delco’s have the same footprint as the Chinese alternators so there is minimal modification. David is correct in that you will have to upgrade the wiring to handle the increased capacity. You can also install LED work lights, which are far superior in performance over halogen at much less the amperage draw. Another consideration is the type of alternator you select. Ideally, one with a closed face fan that draws cooling air from the rear so the alternator doesn’t get packed with crap thrown at it by the engine fan. The ideal replacement is a Prestolite TEFC alternator but they are pricey. Are you going with a one-wire or three-wire?

    Yuchai dozer, Mustang skid steer, Mitsubishi mini-ex, Dual Dozer w/twin laser receivers, '50 Ford COE transit mixer.

  • #45608

    DavidPrivett
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    you know if you can find a single wire alt. from a boat as inboard or a I/o they are sealed as explosion proof as they work in bilges that have a potential of gas vapors. they wont put out 70 amps but I am thinking 40 amps

  • #45610
    Bob Rooks
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    FYI, marine alternators are available up to around 250 amps output, but are not explosion proof. See http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=1096

    Explosion proof alternators are here (and way beyond my pocketbook) http://www.compliantpowersystems.com/?page_id=813 (I’m previously a boatyard owner, marine engineer, catskinner, and currently a Chief Engineer).

    The Prestolite TEFC alternator is here http://www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/specs.php?item_detail_id=19399&item=8TA2034G&product=Alternator These are the same type as the OEM Chinese alternators. The Delco 10Si series seems to be the economical choice. I installed a 80 amp Delco 12Si alternator on my dozer.

     

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    Yuchai dozer, Mustang skid steer, Mitsubishi mini-ex, Dual Dozer w/twin laser receivers, '50 Ford COE transit mixer.

  • #45612

    fido
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    Jackpine,

    I’m feelin your pain! My 07  284 isn’t charging at all.  Very good chance it is just the regulator.  Although, the 10si was a sweet swap on my brothers Farmall H. Leaning that way. Under a $100.   I too have 4 halogens, don’t know the watts, but never noticed a problem when it was working. Good battery?

    Bob, why did you go with the 12si?

    Code 347 CLDTI

  • #45614

    Piper184
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    My 284 charges intermittently. In this case I know that it is a bad connection at the back of the regulator. Most times unplugging and plugging in the regulator will make it work. However the connectors like to slide out of the fuse holder.

    The wiring on these units is not exactly high quality wires or connectors. Also the placement of the regulator in the fuse block makes it subject to a lot of vibration. When I have time I will remove the wires for the regulator and move it to a better location where I can stop the vibration of the wires where the connectors crimp on. I think that is where the problems are. Some strain relief and some wire ties to secure everything should be a permanent fix.

    From what I can tell the alternator and regulator are working fine as long as there is a connection between them.  However if the alternator should fail, a one-wire Delco would be a nice upgrade.

    Stuart

     

  • #45617
    Bob Rooks
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    Bob, why did you go with the 12si?

    Larger frame and more copper, plus the shielded fan and rear air intake.

    Yuchai dozer, Mustang skid steer, Mitsubishi mini-ex, Dual Dozer w/twin laser receivers, '50 Ford COE transit mixer.

  • #45654
    Jackpine
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    Sorry to take so long to reply. Had to go chase the Bambi’s around for a while. Thanx for all the info guys. Yeah Bob, the explosion proof ones are spiffy looking. but they won’t stay so “clean” looking for long. And it’s going to take way more effort than modifying a just wire to adapt the cannon plug. I seem to recall the Delco was what was mentioned in the old thread.

  • #45656
    Bob Rooks
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    Yeah, Delco 10Si or 12Si, one or three-wire, lots of output choices. Don’t forget to upgrade the wiring. Good luck.

    I just included the explosion proof models for comparison. The TEFC would be the model of choice, but I know how cost conscious most people are. You can pick up a used Delco at a wrecking yard.

    Yuchai dozer, Mustang skid steer, Mitsubishi mini-ex, Dual Dozer w/twin laser receivers, '50 Ford COE transit mixer.

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