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Alternator/Keyswitch/Voltmeter Replacement

Forum Forums Tractor Modifications Alternator/Keyswitch/Voltmeter Replacement

This topic contains 8 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by  oldfart2 1 year, 12 months ago.

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  • #45710

    jmayo
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    Not particularly knowledgeable in tractor mechanics, but willing to learn. Attached file on tractor alternator replacement project. Problems?? or comments

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  • #45712
    Bob Rooks
    Bob Rooks
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    Glad you upgraded the wiring. Lots of people don’t. Sorry I can’t help you with the flashers.

    Yuchai dozer, Mustang skid steer, Mitsubishi mini-ex, Dual Dozer w/twin laser receivers, '50 Ford COE transit mixer.

  • #45713

    DavidPrivett
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    where are you located I have something that might find the missing hot(or in this case not hot)

  • #45714

    jmayo
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    I am in Kansas. I probably won’t really have time to fool around with it till Thursday, but I plan to plug the regulator back in and check wires #8 and #9 that were disconnected from the old alternator, and taped off. Thanks

  • #45728

    DavidPrivett
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    yea that is a little to far , if all else fails you could provide a new hot to what is not getting power now, just remember to fuse it a little more than you think your demand might be.

  • #45729

    jmayo
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    Well, got the flashers working. There are 5 female recepticles, where the regulator was removed. The top receptacle is where the flashers are connected. Just ran a jumper from that receptacle to the ground. I believe this is all the same circuit that is fused by the 7.5amp fuse.

    Thanks for suggestions.
    Note: with this new alternator, I did not change to a smaller diameter pulley, and have over 14 volts on the meter without having to rev up the engine. (It starts at 12 then gradually climbs to 14 volts within 15 to 20 seconds or so)

  • #45730

    oldfart2
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    You may find that the battery won’t charge property with the lights and other stuff on, especially at low engine rpm.

  • #45731

    jmayo
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    Question. Wouldn’t the charging of the battery be dependant on the voltage being produced? If 14 volts is being delivered, that is higher than 12 volts (battery) doesn’t that excess voltage (flow) to the battery? (Simplistic, I know). If the lights and all accessories are on, and the voltage remains above 12.?, wouldn’t the battery charge? I will turn everything on and see if voltage drops too low.

  • #45732

    oldfart2
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    True a voltage over 12.8 would prevent the battery from discharging, but you really need a voltage at least in the mid 13 volt range to charge the battery. You have taken a lot out of the battery, just to start it, at 13 volts you would have to run it for a long period of time to recharge the battery. The mid 13 to 14.0 volts will give you the fasted recharge, without damage to the battery. Hope I haven’t given any bad info here.

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