Loading…

FEL up and down very slow on Jinma 454

Forum Forums Tractor Troubleshooting FEL up and down very slow on Jinma 454

This topic contains 19 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by Tinbender Tinbender 1 week, 2 days ago.

  • Author
    Posts
  • #46981

    CalMiller
    Participant
    • Offline

    My FEL bucket tilts up and down correctly but raising the bucket is extremely slow. Also the three point on the back operates correctly. Any ideas on what causing the FEL bucket to raise ever so slowly?

  • #46982

    Piper184
    Participant
    • Offline

    Doesn’t sound like a pump or flow problem if the other parts are working normally.

    Does it sound like the relief valve is opening? The same sound as it makes when the cylinder hits the end of its travel?

    Since it takes more force to lift the loader than to roll the bucket do you know if the bucket or 3 point still have normal power? Will the FEL lift the front of the tractor off the ground?

    If so, I would suspect a plugged control valve or perhaps a hose that is collapsed internally. Rare, but it can happen.

    You could swap the lift cylinder hoses at the valve and maybe figure out if the problem follows the lift or lower side of the circuit. IF that doesn’t tell you anything, you could swap the bucket and lift cylinder hoses at the valve. If the problem stays with the lift cylinders, it would indicate the hose/cylinder and vindicate the valve. However if the bucket starts rolling slowly, it would indicate the valve has a problem.

    Let us know what you find.

  • #46983
    Tinbender
    Tinbender
    Participant
    • Offline

    What make and model tractor? Is it a factory loader or aftermarket?

  • #46984
    Bob Rooks
    Bob Rooks
    Participant
    • Offline

    Is this a recent development, or has it always been this way?

    How many hours on the tractor?

    What was the last thing you did with the tractor before this happened?

    Yuchai dozer, Mustang skid steer, Mitsubishi mini-ex, Dual Dozer w/twin laser receivers, '50 Ford COE transit mixer.

  • #46985

    CalMiller
    Participant
    • Offline

    It has not always been this way. It started last fall and I am just getting back to it. i have about 500 hours on the tractor. To be honest I don’t remember the last thing I did before it started raising very slowly. I will try a few of the things Piper mentioned and report back.

  • #46986
    Bob Rooks
    Bob Rooks
    Participant
    • Offline

    It has not always been this way. It started last fall and I am just getting back to it. i have about 500 hours on the tractor. To be honest I don’t remember the last thing I did before it started raising very slowly. I will try a few of the things Piper mentioned and report back.

    Also, the questions that Tinbender asked are as important.

    Yuchai dozer, Mustang skid steer, Mitsubishi mini-ex, Dual Dozer w/twin laser receivers, '50 Ford COE transit mixer.

  • #46987

    oldfart2
    Participant
    • Offline

    Are you still using the Chinese quick connects on the loader? If so replace them. There is also a screen under the frame, a little ways behind the pump, follow the suction line. Does the knob under the seat have anything to do with the loader? I have a 454 from Rural King, been a good tractor, have about 100 hrs on it now. That breaks down to abt 10 hours a year. Guess I didn’t need it as much as I thought!

  • #46988

    Affordable
    Participant
    • Offline

    Sounds like either one or both of the lift cylinders are leaking by internally or something going on with the valve, I would bet on its one of the cylinders,if its a Jinma ZL-40 loader we should have rebuild kits for the cylinders, we also stock Koyker rebuild kits from 1-3/4″-2-1/2″ give us a call 979-865-4002
    Tommy
    Affordable Tractor Sales
    “Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
    http://www.affordabletractorsalesco.com

  • #46993

    CalMiller
    Participant
    • Offline

    All,

    Swapping lift hoses at the controller made no effect. Swapping lift and bucket hoses the problem of very slow movement moved from the lift to the bucket. I believe this indicates the valve has a problem. How can I determine if the valve is plugged or not working correctly? The knob under the seat only controls the three point and does not appear to have any effect on the FEL.

    More information. The FEL is factory installed by Jinma and is model JM/ZL-40 and the tractor is Jinma 454 LE.

     

  • #46994

    Piper184
    Participant
    • Offline

    Good info. By swapping the hoses and having the problem move to the tilt cylinders, you have eliminated the hoses and the cylinders. This also vindicates the quick couplers, although I would have thought that if they were the problem, all cylinders in the loader would be having the same problem at the same time.

    As for what is wrong in the control valve, I suspect you will have to open it up to see. I don’t know about your valve, but the factory one on my 284 was less than desirable and I opted to replace it with the one from Ranch Hand Supply. This allowed me to get a float position and to add future functions using a power beyond port. The increased sensitivity and fine control over loader movements was well worth the investment.

    You might consider going this route before tearing into your existing valve. I never opened up my old one as it did function and it now sits in the shop as a backup guarantee that nothing will ever happen to my good valve. Just a talisman to ward off the “Murphy” evil spirit.  ;-)

    Maybe someone who has taken one of these valves apart will be able to help with that.

  • #46995

    DavidPrivett
    Participant
    • Offline

    If you can find a exploded view of the valve that would help a lot, and just be careful when taking it apart, I think it almost has to be trash restricting the flow of fluid.

  • #47010

    CalMiller
    Participant
    • Offline

    Thanks for all your comments. I think I will change the quick couplers for sure and am currently looking into a new control valve. Stay tuned for more updates.

  • #47011
    Tinbender
    Tinbender
    Participant
    • Offline

    I had that problem with a ZL-20 a few years back. At the opposite end from the joystick are there two caps on the valve that look like thimbles? If so take those off and you will find a spring under each one with a screw in the center holding them on, the offending control will have a loose screw. Tighten them up and your problem should go away.

  • #47014

    CalMiller
    Participant
    • Offline

    So I removed the thimble caps and sure enough it was exactly as Tinbender stated. One of the screws holding the springs was loose. I tightened it down and it works perfectly when re-assembled. All is well. Thanks so much to everyone for your assistance in debugging this hydraulic problem. It is much appreciated. I am still planning to swap out the quick couplers.

  • #47015

    Piper184
    Participant
    • Offline

    That is fantastic! A simple fix that only costs a little time is the best fix.

    Thank you for posting the solution. You may never know how many others it will help.

    :yahoo:

  • #47016
    Bob Rooks
    Bob Rooks
    Participant
    • Offline

    So I removed the thimble caps and sure enough it was exactly as Tinbender stated. One of the screws holding the springs was loose. I tightened it down and it works perfectly when re-assembled. All is well. Thanks so much to everyone for your assistance in debugging this hydraulic problem. It is much appreciated. I am still planning to swap out the quick couplers.

    A shining star example of a great member. The follow-ups are greatly appreciated, unlike some members that can’t afford the time.

    Yuchai dozer, Mustang skid steer, Mitsubishi mini-ex, Dual Dozer w/twin laser receivers, '50 Ford COE transit mixer.

  • #47017
    Tinbender
    Tinbender
    Participant
    • Offline

    With all the time and head scratching it took me to figure that out on mine I’m just glad I was able to share what I learned :good:

  • #47210

    NuJinma
    Participant
    • Offline

    Just looked at the date this was posted; if you tightened it to much you probably know by now what i write here; You probably have done it well but just make sure that you do not crank down the spring too tight. I assume what you are tightening is the hyd pressure bypass. If the bypass is not working properly every time you extend or retract the cylinder fully, the pressure in your whole system will spike and generally the first thing to go is a hydraulic hose. I have replaced many of my hoses because I had exactly the same problem and tightened the bypass a bit to tight. As you probably know hoses are a pain in the ass to replace as hydraulic shops don’t have this thread, they (or the best one i found anyhow) have one close which works, but definitely is not correct.

  • #47212
    Tinbender
    Tinbender
    Participant
    • Offline

    No, I didn’t touch the bypass valve, that’s up on top by itself. These screws hold the return springs for the up/down and dump/curl shafts to return to center. They are either screwed down tight and things are working correctly, or they have loosened, and the two shafts your joystick controls cannot return to center. I’ll try to remember to take a picture in the AM.

  • #47213
    Tinbender
    Tinbender
    Participant
    • Offline

    Here’s a picture of the ZL20 valve. The Green arrow is the bypass valve. If you were to take that apart to clean you would want to mark it and preferably put a gauge inline and write down the pressure reading as well as how many turns it took to take apart.

    The Yellow arrows are where the springs live that loosen up causing the up/down or lift/curl valves to not return to center. These screws Must be tight.

    Attachments:
    You must be logged in to view attached files.

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.