Loading…

Pin Hole in Hydraulic Cylinder

Forum Forums Tractor Operation And Maintenance Pin Hole in Hydraulic Cylinder

This topic contains 16 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by  jmayo 7 months, 4 weeks ago.

  • Author
    Posts
  • #46872

    jmayo
    Participant
    • Offline

    Question for those who know about hydraulic cylinders.
    I have a Nortrac NT254 with an Ameriquip 1836 NT700 front end loader. While pulling posts the other day, the wife is pointing at the lifting cylinder on the left side. There was a “Hair fine” stream of hydraulic fluid squirting out the cylinder casing. There evidently, a pin hole in the casing on the end opposite the cylinder rod. I couldn’t see it very well, but in or close to the end of the cylinder case itself where the “TEE” is attached to the case. I suppose that cylinder case has the end welded onto the tube, and perhaps this weld has a small pin hole.
    How does one fix this? Can it be welded, and if so does it have to be taken off and drained, or can it be epoxyed? (I am stupid about this and just trying to get educated.) Would it be simpler to just replace the cylinder, and if so does it have to be done in pairs?
    Your thoughts and experience would be welcome.

    Thanks all.

  • #46873

    DavidPrivett
    Participant
    • Offline

    take it off and take it to a hydro. repair shop , it could go either way. remember to seal off or rise level  the hose ends to minimize fluid loss .

  • #46874
    Bob Rooks
    Bob Rooks
    Participant
    • Offline

    Yes, what David said. And no, the cylinders don’t have to be replaced in pairs. A hydraulic repair shop can re-weld the cylinder end. This cannot be done while there is oil in the cylinder.

    Yuchai dozer, Mustang skid steer, Mitsubishi mini-ex, Dual Dozer w/twin laser receivers, '50 Ford COE transit mixer.

  • #46880

    jmayo
    Participant
    • Offline

    OK, Maybe I am making this difficult. Checking to see what a new cylinder would cost. Called Nortrac, said it was a 2 inch bore. (Measures about 2.5 inches outside diameter of the casing) Didn’t know the stroke. So I lowered the bucket loader, as far as it would go (lifted the front end off the ground). From pin center to pin center measured 30.5 inches. Elevated bucket to as high as it would go, pin to pin measured 52.5 inches. So is the stroke 22 inches? If so, I can’t find a cylinder exactly like that. I see retracted lengths of 28″ and 32″ with strokes of 20″and 24″ respectively. Does it have to be more exact than that?

  • #46881
    Bob Rooks
    Bob Rooks
    Participant
    • Offline

    Does it have to be more exact than that?

    Absolutely. The cylinders must have the same bore, stroke, and displacement (rod size). Otherwise there will be a whole lot of twistin’ goin’ on.

    If Northern can’t supply the correct cylinder, then you may have to purchase two new ones to match.

    Did you check here? http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Cylinders/Double-Acting-Hydraulic-Cylinders/

    Yuchai dozer, Mustang skid steer, Mitsubishi mini-ex, Dual Dozer w/twin laser receivers, '50 Ford COE transit mixer.

  • #46882

    jmayo
    Participant
    • Offline

    Okay, so I think I found one that matches, pretty closely.

  • #46883

    jmayo
    Participant
    • Offline

    Yeah I had checked the surplus center. I did find Some made by Magistar Hydraulics that is pretty close. The tube ends widths I would have to measure. Maybe they could be ground narrower if they won’t fit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydraulic-Cylinder-Welded-Double-Acting-2-Bore-22-Stroke-Cross-Tube-2×22-NEW-/331906968612

  • #46884
    Bob Rooks
    Bob Rooks
    Participant
    • Offline

    Sure. Why not?

    Yuchai dozer, Mustang skid steer, Mitsubishi mini-ex, Dual Dozer w/twin laser receivers, '50 Ford COE transit mixer.

  • #46885

    jmayo
    Participant
    • Offline

    I recieved a parts manual from Ameriquip and thought I would post it here for posterity. Kind of neat in that it lists the specs for the cylinders. Called a place referred to by Ameriquip, and the cylinder with the part number that I need was quoted at $463. OOOOOUUUUCCCCHHHH!!!!!!!!
    I said I’ll look for alternatives.

    It is a “tang: fitment on the base end. I suppose that is a stronger end.

    Attachments:
    You must be logged in to view attached files.
  • #46887
    Tinbender
    Tinbender
    Participant
    • Offline

    Have you looked into getting yours repaired?

  • #46888

    jmayo
    Participant
    • Offline

    Actually I have not. I suspect I would have to take it some distance to a shop, leave it then go back for it. I wouldn’t be able to use it while it was down. I will have to see about a place that might be closer.

  • #46889
    Tinbender
    Tinbender
    Participant
    • Offline

    Bummer. I have an implement manufacturer on my way to work that I could drop something like that off to this morning and most likely pick up on my way home.

  • #46890
    Bob Rooks
    Bob Rooks
    Participant
    • Offline

    Have you looked into getting yours repaired?

    Yes, exactly. Any welding shop could do it. Probably would take all of fifteen minutes. Although you should disassemble it first.

    Yuchai dozer, Mustang skid steer, Mitsubishi mini-ex, Dual Dozer w/twin laser receivers, '50 Ford COE transit mixer.

  • #46891
    Tinbender
    Tinbender
    Participant
    • Offline

    “Yes, exactly. Any welding shop could do it. Probably would take all of fifteen minutes. Although you should disassemble it first.”

    I’ve never had one apart, although I do have a 4 ton Porto-Power ram that needs rebuilding and those come apart pretty easy. :scratch:

  • #46898

    jmayo
    Participant
    • Offline

    OK probably get blasted for this but…
    You guys got my courage up about how easy it was to take these apart. Did some reading and this was actually a pretty easy fix. I think I got it as I don’t see any oozing, runs, or oil residue when I have the loader raised.

    What I did, was disconnect the hose closest to the base. Unpinned the base end from its mount. Extended the cylinder piston, (to pull the workings away from the base end). Sanded the area, cleaned with brake fluid many times. Then welded the spot. Had to do it twice because I must have missed the spot the first time. I filed the weld down. I haven’t been able to knock the weld spot off. I guess I will see if she holds. Not out anything except a little labor.

  • #46899
    Tinbender
    Tinbender
    Participant
    • Offline

    Blasted? Congratulations! Sounds like you just saved yourself time and money, that’s why most of us buy these off brand tractors in the first place. :yahoo:

  • #46900

    jmayo
    Participant
    • Offline

    Thanks for your all responses. Since it was in the end weld, there didn’t seem to be much issue. If it were in the middle of the case, I would have had second thoughts due to being weaker and thinner, and maybe the heat deforming the cylinder somewhat.

    Thanks for the encouragement.

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.