- This topic has 7 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 9 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
-
NO you do not have to do any of that, you drop the 4 x 4 driveshaft and replace it ? It's not a big job at all
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
-
- Offline
Hey Tommy, I am new to this site. I have my Nortrac nt254 split now changing the clutch. Am I correct at thinking I will be using grease to hold the six ball bearings in place while I re-install the front drive shaft?
-
-
- Offline
Thanks Eric! I thought so
-
Well, this evening I removed the clamps holding the rubber boot and collapsed the two halves of the tube over the 4×4 drive shaft, exposing the couplings on both ends. I slid back the rubber boot covering the front coupler and the circlip fell out in two pieces. Suprisingly, all 6 steel balls were in place in the coupler.
I could not figure out how to remove the drive shaft. I can't compress the drive shaft enough to unmate it from the front coupling. I can compress the drive shaft sufficiently to unmate the rear coupler from the transfer case output shaft, but the cross member & rear tube section restrict how far I can move the drive shaft up, down and sideways and don't have enough wiggle room to remove it. So, what is the secret for getting the 4×4 drive shaft out?
Jinma 284, logging winch, post hole digger, pallet forks, backhoe, back blade
-
Ran into the same thing recently when I split mine for clutch work. The drive shaft fell out easy enough when I pulled the two halves apart. Im amazed I tracked down all the little balls that went rolling. Ha!
Putting it back together I unbolted the front axle assembly from the tractor. That is four bolts best I recall and slid the front axle forward just enough.
-
Don't know why I didn't see this earlier, but the cross-member is easily removed by just removing the bolts that attach it to the FEL bracket and transmission then sliding it back till it is clear of the FEL bracket. With the cross-member out of the way, the drive shaft is easily removed by compressing it toward the front axle till it unmates from the rear coupler then lowering the axle shaft to clear the transfer case. At that point the axle shaft is easily separated from the front coupling.
Upon inspecting the drive shaft, I see the splines on the front of the drive shaft are significantly deformed, probably from over-torqueing the front axle. Both front and rear couplers and transfer case output shaft look fine. I decided to replace the drive shaft now rather than risk complete failure of four wheel drive later.
I don't know what suprises await when I put it all back together.
Jinma 284, logging winch, post hole digger, pallet forks, backhoe, back blade
-
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.