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It looks like you will have to push the shaft through the rear far enough to remove the rear bearing, allowing the shaft to drop, and then remove the shaft through the front. The driver gear appears to be an interference. Do you know if both of those bearings are the same size?
Is your shop going to weld on a sliding spline with a yoke and cross? That would be cool.
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pulled off rear cover and a tap with my hand pushed the shaft and rear bearing out the back. took the part to the shop doing the work and the guy who will actually do the job looked at it and was a little less optimistic than the fellow I saw yesterday. one concern was that whatever is done to the transfer case shaft still has to allow the cover and seal to slide over it for a seal. I was thinking maybe to fill the groves up by welding and then machining the shaft to a square or hex that would allow a standard universal coupler to slide on and pin in place with a roll pin. the front end should be easier as the shaft exposed from the front gear box is splined. would a square or hex in the rear be able to handle the required torque. also everything must fit inside the weldment cover or some kind of cover.
any thoughts would be appreciated
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jinma 254/25hp, shaft is 24.75mm/.970 in .70 in from groove to groove
So, shaft itself is slightly less than 1″ diameter, and slightly less than 3/4″ diameter for the ball slots, and then subtract for a 5/16″ keyway. That doesn’t leave much meat. According to my calculations, a shaft size of 1-3/8″ (34.9 mm) is required to transmit 20-30HP @ 1,800 r/m. I think you made the right call.
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