How to setup a scraper blade?

  Sorry to say but the main thing I use a back blade for is plowing snow. It's hard to beat a box blade for working a drive. I work probably 3/4 mile of drive. Lengthen toplink for cutting. For smoothing or just working up the top on rock drive turn the blade backwards and shorten toplink. It all works opposite for a box blade.

I think that the biggest problem with those is they are not heavy enough for a lot of uses they have a tendency to bounce since tractors usually do not have down pressure, they depend on weight for down force. Even box blades have this issue but it is easier to add weight to them, I have added around 150 lbs. to mine.

Ditto on the weights. I hang 2 old tractor wheel weights, 100lbs each on mine otherwise it just scratches the gravel around. I also had to play with the pitch and angle a while before it would cut. All of those change again when I use it for snow. When I need to reshape an area, I need some moisture in the ground too.

The best addition I made is a hydraulic top-link. It makes anything you add way more versatile especially a rear blade. By changing the angle a bit as you need you can dig a little as well. I find my 7' blade very useful even without any rear weight. Plus attaching any implement way easier as you can adjust length as you need. Probably the best single relatively cheap addition I have made.

Dave

Ditto on the hydraulic top links!!

Agreed on the hydraulic top link. I even took it one step further and added a three point quick hitch. I change implements in seconds now instead of minutes.

  I've been thinking about getting a hydraulic top link, after reading what you guys wrote I ordered one from agri store. I've got a quick hitch, but found some of my older equipment wouldn't hook up.

I had that issue too. A lot of manufacturers seem to think they don't need to conform to ASABE dimension standards for whatever reason. I just made adapters so they would work with the quick hitch.