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    • #46953
      Bob Rooks
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        Very smart with the hydronic heating imo. Is this a steel building? I don’t see where sill plates would go. Are your trusses engineered for load bearing in addition to snow and wind? Unless they are I wouldn’t do that.

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      • #46954
        CTOA
        Keymaster
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          Looking good, keep us updated with the progress! 🙂

           

          CTOA - Founder

        • #46957
          jmayo
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            Amazing how fast they poured 24 yards of concrete with that pump truck. This is going to be wooden framing 2×6 walls. There is a 6″ stem wall above the concrete floor, but it extends to the footing below the frost line, so the they are 48″ walls. I don’t know if you can make it out, but there are metal straps cast into the foundation walls at the corner of the garage doors. These are for shear strength, and will be nailed to the studs of the walls. There are bolts cast into the foundation to bolt the sill to.

            The trusses, I’ve been working on with a company. In this county they have to have a certain load, (I think 40/20), but if there is plumbing in the floor it is boosted up by 10 or so, and that is what we have being planned.

            Alot of guys use a water heater for their heating of the floors, but I understand that this is rather ineffecient, although it is the least expensive way to go. I am thinking of a propane boiler, in a closed system, so it will just be circulating the antifreeze. Also going to put in a point of use water heater at a sink inside. (I have a frost free hydrant inside the foundation. (My wife insists on the sink in the garage for washup.) Imagine that.

          • #46959
            DavidPrivett
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              I have heard of people using a outside wood burning boilers to heat the bldg. and floor, just a thought if you gots lotsa fallen wood sitting just going to rot.

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