new to forums, need help tightning TRACKS

[Bob Rooks]

These track tension adjusters are spring tension only (no grease pump-up), although there may be a grease fitting on yours where the adjusting rod goes into the round spring housing. If you have parts and owners manuals, this will be explained.

There is also a lock bolt on the idler yoke, in addition to the lock nut on the adjusting rod, that must be loosened before you can turn the adjusting rod. If it's been a while since the tracks were adjusted these components may be frozen and require a penetrant.

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[Bob Rooks]

You will have to remove the lift box cover (heavy) and reinstall the lift piston in the cylinder, and consequently adjust the piston stop.

Oils:

15w-40 oil for the engine (Chevron Delo or Shell Rotella or equivalent).

Transmission: 80w-90 gear oil.

Shuttle clutch (if you have the type with external hydraulic cylinders): ISO AW 46 hydraulic oil.

Final drives: 85w-140 gear oil.

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[Robert Throm]

Thanks so much bob
when i try and turn the Adjusting screw i can get about an 1/8 rotation but the end that goes into the cylinder moves horizontally a little bit, i think the adjusting screw/yoke may be broken or maybe Totally unscrewd from the cylinder. I will try penetranting oil before i pull the cylinder.
If i do have to remove the cylinder can i saFely take it apart or will the springs make it impossible for the novice to put back together?

[Bob Rooks]

If there is a grease fitting where the adjusting rod goes into the spring cylinder give it a few shots of grease, that may help some. If not, back out (unscrew, tighten track) the rod and apply penetrating oil liberally to the threads and then screw back in to slacken the track. Extreme care must be taken when disassembling the tensioner. Make sure there is absolutely no tension on the bolts before removing them all the way. You may have to use longer bolts on the end cap before the spring is completely relaxed. Place them opposite of each other. Reassemble in reverse order.

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[Bob Rooks]

Your type of shuttle clutch, if it is the type I'm thinking of, does not require the special oil. Yours will use the same as in your hydraulic system – ISO AW 46.

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[Robert Throm]

No grease fitting, i cant see any threads on the adjusting rod but i only have about an inch before the idler wheel bracket is at the end of its run. When i removed the bolt above the Adjusting rod seat ( spring seat) it apeears to be broken off deep in the housing would that matter?

[DavidPrivett]

chances are a broken spring will never tension correctly

[Bob Rooks]

Not sure what bolt you’re talking about. Pictures would help. If there are no threads showing on the adjusting rod then it’s screwed in all the way. Try unscrewing it. I assume your track is slack.

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[Bob Rooks]

I’ll try to post a pic of the tensioner assembly.

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[Bob Rooks]

This will give you an idea of what's inside the cylinder. Yours may be somewhat different, but basically the same. Sorry for being late with this, had back issues once I got back to civilization.  Hope you can still use the info.

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[Robert Throm]

Yup thats it. Bolt number 7 appears to have broken off deep in the housing. I soaked everthing in penetrating oil and with a long pipe on a 24 inch wrench i was able to turn the adjusting bolt 3, it doest

[Robert Throm]

Move at all, so either the spring seat,8 is Turning or the adjusting rod is broken. Appears ill have to pull the whole thing to take a look. I will keep you informed and tRy to remeber to take pictures so maybe we can collect enOugh pictures as a group to make a better repair manual.

[Bluenoser]

Hi  I had the same issue with mine .. several times. Rocks bent and broke the bolt head off. Got the remains out with heat, penetrating oil and a small chisel.  Replaced with allen key screw + anti seize. Have never had a problem since.

[Bluenoser]

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