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The dual dozer blade is operated automatically. I just operate the throttle, steer, and drink coffee.
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Forgot that you have a ~70 HP tractor. Yes, they will have a higher output alternator than the smaller tractors.
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Yep math is correct. Nominally a 72 amp alternator. It's likely that you have an integral voltage regulator given the absence of one in the likely location. Alternators produce AC current that is converted to DC through the diode pack within the alternator housing. You could have a blown diode or have a bad voltage regulator. These are fairly inexpensive fixes if you can do the work yourself. If you have a TEFC alternator housing I strongly recommend that you stay with that style.
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The Harbor Freight quick hitch conforms to the ASAE spacing standards which has been adopted by most implement manufacturers. I think there are still a few manufacturers that don't wish to conform for some reason. Note: The Harbor Freight hitch can get tweaked during shipping. This is not a big deal but check the dimension between the hooks before you take it home.
Pat's Easy Change hooks are just that. Quick attach / release hooks on the lift arms and they work very well. They will also allow connecting to non-standard implements. If you use a spreader bar between the lift arms it makes life easier. For me their big drawback was no connection to the top link so a fair amount of horsing around was still necessary to hook up to an implement.
I have a rock rake, box scraper, grader scraper, backhoe, laser controlled scraper, and crane that all attach to my HF quick hitch. I also have a hydraulic top link that allows me to change between implements in a minute or less.
Hope this helps.
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Nope. It may be a couple of amps either way though. Check your manual to be sure. It'll be rated in watts.
The current I in amps (A) is equal to the power P in watts (W), divided by the voltage V in volts (V):
I(A) = P(W) / V(V)
So amps are equal to watts divided by volts.
amp = watt / volt
The OEM alternator would do just fine if you operated the tractor continuously for at least eight hours without using the lights.
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You also might want to double check all of your electrical and battery cable connections, especially the ground cable, to make sure they are clean and tight.
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First I would try to figure out what the output of the OEM alternator is. If it's a meager 14 0r 15 amps, which most are, I would consider upgrading instead. The OEM alternators could barely keep up with the lighting draw let alone put back into the battery that was taken out for starting. Either Ronald at Ranch Hand Supply or Tommy at Affordable Tractor has the upgraded alternator. Don't remember which or if both do.
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Sounds like you are using straight water in your cooling system. A good flush and fill with a high quality 50/50 anti-freeze every three years would have prevented that.
As for a radiator replacement, get the dimensions, tube count, inlet and outlet sizes and locations, and mounting configuration and go to an auto parts store or NAPA.
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