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The plunger is operated by the camshaft in the fuel injection pump. When the meniscus (“swell”) is at it's highest point (flat) the plunger is at maximum stroke. Hope this answers your question.



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The only way to see if an injector is performing correctly is to pop test it on a bench tester, that way you can see if the atomization spray pattern is correct, see if it is dribbling, has a crisp “chirp” sound, and witness the pop pressure.
Black smoke is caused by two different scenarios. 1) Not enough air to burn a specific amount of fuel as determined by the governor. 2) Too much fuel for a given amount of air as determined by engine speed.
If I understand correctly then, you start the engine (no hand throttle movement) and it will idle fine (smokeless) for about five minutes, then it will seem to lug (bog down) and begin to smoke, and eventually stop. Is that correct?
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It sounds to me like the centrifugal advance isn't retarding when the engine speed returns to idle. Does it emit black or light grey smoke when this happens?
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Affordable, Circle-G, and Keno will have OEM replacements.
Most filter manufacturers will cross reference by dimensions online.
You can take it to a good parts house and physically match it up.
A picture would be very helpful because some of the cylindrical air filters match up to Donaldson, Wix, etc.
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Good dies are usually adjustable. Start with the largest opening (screw backed out) and work your way in. This may take several evolutions depending on type of material. I remember once I had to make four 3' 3/4″ pieces of stainless all-thread. This was before all-thread was thought of. Never forgot that.

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I got a new 12″ bucket for the mini from my guy for $450 with a quick attach.
Nice going David.
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Again, I had the same concerns. When operating the backhoe my back was turned to the instrument panel, and the engine in general. I was working the unit late one night when the thermostat gasket blew. I didn't know it until I smelled a really hot engine and was able to shut it down before it seized. Consequently, I installed oil pressure and coolant temperature Murphy Switchgages® and connected them to a piezoelectric horn and a small lashing LED beacon. Also installed a fuel pressure Switchgage because of past issues with diesel bugs.
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July 23, 2014 at 1:44 am in reply to: Spirol spiral pin for clutch fork pin replacement on Jinma #37105No joke Luke,
Designing machinery is a complicated process that brings many engineering disciplines into play. Many other considerations are also included including repairability, operability, ergonomics, compatibility, commonality, market trends, and capital accounting just to lame a few.
I believe the fork uses two pins on the cross shaft, so rather than have a very robust clutch pedal attachment to the cross shaft such as a clamped spline, which would undoubtedly shear the two pins in the yoke necessitating splitting the tractor, the part that would most likely fail was designed to be on the outside of the clutch housing.
I have used Spirol pins to replace OEM pins in many different applications for years and have never had one fail.
I assume you replaced the yoke pins with Spirol too?

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July 22, 2014 at 1:47 pm in reply to: Spirol spiral pin for clutch fork pin replacement on Jinma #37102Welcome Luke,
I believe the design philosophy was to have the weakest link on the outside rather than have to split the tractor to replace the pin(s) on the release fork.

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