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The check valve seats were not replaceable/repairable in my case, there is one for the inlet and one for the outlet. They were both pitted beyond repair with lapping techniques. And as I stated, the piston was badly worn. The 6mm O-ring would have cost me six cents and I didn't want to go through the trouble of building and fitting a new piston when a brand new pump assembly was only $35.00.
Diesel bugs are a very bad thing. I have personally witnessed them bring a 10,000 HP diesel plant to it's knees, and the ensuing repair costs.
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Hi Blue,
Long time, no see.
My ordeal was detailed in the old forum with pictures and videos. I think the videos are still up on You Tube.
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The fuel cavity (chamber) which floods the individual injector pumps is separate from the oil reservoir so that is unlikely the cause. The fuel lift pump piston doesn’t have sealing rings, it’s just a good fit (not a lap fit) and has an O-ring seal on the push rod that attaches to the cam follower. This O-ring is the only seal between the diesel fuel and the oil reservoir. You can remove the lift pump and disassemble it to change the O-ring. Unfortunately there is no manual for this but it’s a fairly simple task.
I had similar issues but when I disassembled my pump I found the check valve seats were badly pitted and the piston was badly worn due to diesel bugs. I wound up re-plumbing the primary fuel system and ordering a new lift pump from Tommy. Problem solved. You can also use an electric fuel pump designed for diesel fuel in lieu of the mechanical lift/primer pump as long as you have a fuel return line back to the tank directly from the fuel injection pump (the return line can also pass through the injector leak off lines).
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One sure fire method is to take your old filter to a GOOD auto supply house like NAPA and just match it up.
You can also call Tommy or Phillip and have your new OEM filters delivered almost overnight.
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Okay, not going to discount that data, but it's old enough to vote and probably not very relevant to engines of the past ten or so years that are designed using CAD thermal imaging.
Here is a primer on the reversal zone wear we're discussing:
http://www.federalmogul.com/en…..MTZ409.pdf
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You have to be real careful about that with these machines, they don't have rock guards on the swing frames nor the sheet metal to cover them. These aren't Caterpillar. You're lucky you didn't break that bull gear shaft.
Good luck in your travels.
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If it were me, I'd let the seals be replaced from the outside so you wouldn't have to remove the bearing base. Must be Chinese logic.
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The seals are set into the back side of the bearing base, which will have to be removed (unscrewed) from the main case to be changed. I really don't think it can be done in situ, but good luck in trying.
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Jim,
It's a moot point once thermal equilibrium is reached (all affected components being equal temperature). Where did that graph and data come from? I don't recall any SAE white papers on the subject.
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That's great! You learn by doing, and have a keen mechanical sense. Good that you could discern that the piston rings were installed wrong. Not sure what you meant by modifying the coolant pump to use “off the shelf bearings and seals”- all bearings and seals come “off the shelf,” they are either SAE or metric, and some may even come off of Tommy's shelf.
You say “I want my engine to run nice and warm. (This minimizes cylinder and ring wear as well as emissions).” What you meant was “I wanted thermal efficiency.” Here is my point. Optimal operating temperature (currently) is around 190°F with a ΔT of about 10°F. This helps maintain thermal equilibrium (knowing that different metals expand at different rates, and when expansion stabilizes, proper clearances are maintained) and lets the lubricating oil be more efficient by keeping more soot in suspension and allowing combustion by-products, like water, to be boiled off and recirculated through the exhaust. Thermal efficiency also allows for a hotter combustion chamber which aids in a more complete combustion and propagating flame front with less ash and soot residue. By the way, there is no correlation between upper liner and piston ring wear with operating temperature, that's strictly a metallurgical and lubrication issue. When the piston changes direction at TDC the compression rings “roll” in the land and are forced against the liner walls by the pressure from combustion. This is the main cause of liner/ring wear, although it can be greatly accelerated by dirty air cleaners, in which case the engine is considered “dusted”.
I'm not going to delve into your governor tinkering, you'll know why. Just because it's on an internet forum doesn't mean that it's necessarily true, good, or factual.
But I am thankful that you are satisfied with your results.
“If you think education is expensive, try ignorance”
“Good mechanics aren't expensive, they're priceless”
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