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Just curious if you know what you are actually doing Jim.
Do you expect any issues?
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Use hydraulic oil: ISO AW 32 or ISO AW 46 (it's cheaper, and it's recommended).
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Markr wrote:
“2. assuming that is the best way to remove seals can do you think I can do that with the driveshaft in?”
Umm, nope.
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Tinbender is correct. You will need a pin spanner wrench or deep axle socket, with two ears removed, of the appropriate size to unscrew it. Expect it to be real tight because it carries the side loading from the bevel gear. I don't know what the torque is, but after you get it reassembled you should take a blue reading on the bevel gear set to make sure it wasn't disturbed. In fact, take a reading before disassembly so you can compare. This procedure is detailed in the owner's manual.
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I have a Zinsco panel in the cabin and it's fine, although new breakers are pricey by comparison. The big issue with Zinsco was the old style breakers, not the panel itself. The new style breakers have better bus bar clamps and also have screw lugs for the wires instead of the push-in type.
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Chances are that the clutch discs you recieve aren't going to be riveted, so don't be surprised.
Be aware that if you remove the red sealer coating from the parts, casting sand will sluff off. That's why it's painted on there, it's not just a Chinese thing either.
As far as torquing specs, just use the standard metric guide for the correct property class fastener.
Be sure to inspect the internal splines on the brake drum.
Seal installation: Lip always goes towards the oil.
Lubricants: Transmission and bevel gear compartment (common sump) – 80w/90 gear oil. Final drives (one on each side) 85w/140 gear oil.
The “strange” nut holding the brake drum on is like an axle nut found on almost all trucks. You can get a socket at NAPA or any GOOD auto parts store. They will need dimensions
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Do you have a two or three cylinder engine? Do you have a parts and/or owner's manuals?
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The clutch discs (not the plates) are not unlike those used in Borg Warner hydraulic “Velvet Drive” reverse gears as used in boats, forklifts, and many industrial applications where they run “wet”. They are NOT cerro-metallic as advertised, but a sintered carbon/copper composite. Personally I wouldn’t try to degrease them because they have become saturated with oil. From your photo it appears the discs have a riveted friction media. Correct?
You must have one of the older Guilin dozers, all of the later model Yuchai’s have drain plugs in the steering clutch compartment, as well as vents in the top cover. One of the periodic inspection points is to check the steering clutch compartment for oil by removing the plug. I would carefully drill and tap a 1/2″ NPT hole at the lowest point in the compartment, but don’t drill into a bolt boss.
I assume you will be installing new seals. Replacing brake bands while you’re in this deep?
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I'm with Larry and David. I don't believe there is any significant advantage to using Amsoil products in this application, or any synthetics either for that matter. And don't get talked into using UTF or THF in lieu of gear oil. So long as the gear oil you select has an AGMA rating, you'll be fine.
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