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David wrote:
“remember from the factory this was 6 volt positive ground so we have reinvented this.”
This is nothing new. I have converted several vehicles and boats from 6v to 12v, and to 24v and 32 v. Also did my M-37A Power Wagon from 24v to 12v. Not once did I ever use a diode with the alternator.
Also said:
“…added to get it to charge at low rpms ,so it is energizing the points…”
Points? What points? Distributor contacts? Those shouldn't run off the alternator.
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The correct size pulley would have solved the low charge rate. If you run the white (field) wire as shown in the diagram you don't need a diode. If the engine runs on after you turn off the key switch then something is wrong.
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Why use a diode when it isn’t necessary? And don't just run the sensing wire to the “BAT” terminal, run it all the way back to the battery terminal. The indicator “idiot” light is optional.
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So then the bows are all one piece? Wow. Sleeving sounds like a good fix.
I think that snow was pretty wet.
Something to consider for next time is throwing a little heat in there or rigging temporary support colums for winter.
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That is so sad to see. What a bummer. Although it looks like none of the cover was damaged. I think even if you are able to salvage the bows you will then need permanent support colums for them. Good luck.
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I purchased one of these with a 11,000 lumen LED work light. They appear to be AWG 12.
https://www.larsenlights.com/40-amp-relay-with-socket
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If I'm not mistaken, Robbo is looking for a plain bearing insert not an anti-friction bearing. I suggest Monmouth or Federal-Mogul bearings. If you have the old bearing take it to a GOOD automotive machine shop and they can match it up. It may cross reference over to a Yanmar, Mitsubishi, Kubota, Lai Dong, or Jai Dong, etc.
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Excellent news. I have been using graphite lube in starter solenoids, and other locations as well, for the very same reason; it doesn't thicken with cold temperatures AND it doesn't attract and hold dust and dirt.
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