Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
1) Remove the banjo bolt holding the fuel return lines to the top of the injector.
2) Loosen (do not remove) the hard fuel line at the injector.
3) Remove the two nuts holding the injector clamp, and remove the clamp.
4) Remove the hard fuel line nut and cover the fuel line.
5) Pull out the injector and copper sealing washer.
Make sure the injector bore is absolutely clean and dry before reinstalling with a new sealing washer. Assemble in reverse order.
This task can also be accomplished by just removing the glow plugs and turning the engine over using a socket on the front of the crankshaft.
Account deleted.
That's a new one on me. I've never seen a tang drive governor either (other end of cam).
Account deleted.
There should actually be three hoses I believe. 1) Oil supply from gallery. 2) Oil drain back to crankcase. 3) Vacuum line to EGR valve.
Account deleted.
RonJ is correct, tractor size doesn't really matter. However, because larger tractors will have category ll hitches, the pins will be larger and mods will have to be made to the hoe in order to fit. The back hoe's power is determined (limited) by the relief valve setting.
Account deleted.
I have never seen a fuel injection pump with a tang drive. All the ones I've seen have either a gear keyed and bolted to the cam, the gear is bolted and keyed to a tapered cam, or the gear is slip-fitted and keyed against a shoulder on the cam. (The cam being the input shaft of the fuel injection pump, which is in itself a camshaft.) Even the adjustable advance and auto-advance devices are similar.
Account deleted.
It was my experience in rebuilding the cylinders on my LW-6 that it's best to disassemble one and measure the cup seals as there are many different kits available for the same size cylinders. A big plus is that the replacement cup seals are polyurethane and not rubber or neoprene (at least mine were). I know Tommy or Ronald and Phillip stock the kits but individual pieces may be available at your local hydraulic repair shop or NAPA. Other dealers may stock kits as well.
Account deleted.
I use O'Reilly Auto Parts house brand. I believe it's repackaged by Citgo. It meets all specs. Here is a short read on multi-vis hydraulic oils. It's a few buck more than a straight grade oil but I believe the benefits are worth it.
Account deleted.
lenbo wrote:
“Also been told that using heavier oil will produce a hotter oil temp (wear seals out faster).”
Not sure where you heard that lenbo, but it is pure bunk. A good operating temperature for most hydraulic oils is around 150° F sustained with around 200° F being maximum. The scraper rings on hydraulic cylinders are usually good for 300° to 400° F, and most Nitrile, Neoprene, or Buna-N components are in the same neighborhood with Silicone being higher. I use a multi-viscosity (multi-vis) hydraulic oil in all of my equipment. It's rated AW ISO 32/46/68, and is available through most manufacturers. If you prefer to run a straight grade, I would recommend the AW 32. If in doubt, check the operating temperature with a gauge or hand held gun. None of these machines have hydraulic oil coolers on them, they rely on heat dissipation from the volume of the reservoir.
Account deleted.
