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They had tons of new Chinese wood chippers that appeared to take up to 5″ limbs?
There were lots of brand new rock rakes and brush hogs.
There was a brand new tractor (I think Jinma) in the shop being fitted with one of their FEL's, and another older import tractor being fitted with one also.
Don't you find it curious that there isn't a street address on their website or business card? I mean, after all…
All those new rock rakes are going to seed in the blackberries.
They appear to have an ample inventory of used tractors and machines.
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I don’t think the primer part of the lift pump is sold seperately, you’ll have to purchase a complete lift pump assembly for about $35.00 from one of the supporting dealers of this site, Affordable, Circle-G, Keno, etc.
Your original post said nothing about bleeding the fuel system without the primer. However, you can purchase an electric fuel pump from an auto supply store that’s designed for use with diesel fuel for about $40.00 and use that for priming.
So if the piston is corroded solid in the bore, that's a sure sign you have water in your fuel and a bad case of diesel bugs to boot.
Good luck.
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huntinaldy wrote:
“… the brakes never seemed to really engage/turn like they should, then after throwing a track one day, I put it back on, and “viola” dozer wont turn. To make it worse, left brake does nothing when applied, and right brake ceases both tracks when applied.”
Well, I guess you know that there is no correlation between re-installing a track and the dozer's ability to steer.
If I understand correctly, when you fully depress the right brake pedal the dozer comes to a stop – it doesn't try to steer to the right. When you fully depress the left brake pedal nothing happens and the dozer continues on a straight course. It sounds like the brake pedal cross shafts could be frozen together (alas, there is no lube point). Does the left pedal move when you depress the right pedal?
The first thing I would do is remove the steering compartment drain plugs and see what comes out- they are large hex plugs located just forward of the lower brake adjusting bolts underneath the dozer.
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Glad to hear you still have it.
The release of the clutch packs should be relatively effortless unless they put some monster springs in them.
Could it be that there isn't enough pre-loading of the brake band, and you are coming to the end of the clutch release yoke travel? Just a thought.
I know what you mean about “Life”. I have yet to make those dozer maintenance videos.
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Welcome huntinaldy.
I think he sold the dozer, he hasn’t posted here since October 25, 2011.
Is there anything I can help you with?
Do you have the pendulum pedals also?
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If that is your secondary fuel filter in the upper right corner, it is a cannister element type, not a spin-on. Take it to NAPA or any competent auto supply store and they should be able to match it up. Same for a spin-on. I think David has provided the correct number for the spin-on element.
By now you have probably discovered that you can unscrew the barrel from the lift pump and discovered a circlip laying in the bottom.
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How in the heck were you able to uscrew the shaft off the plunger piston??
Now you 'll have to remove the barrel from the lift pump and re-attach the plunger, because I don't think you will be able to get it to pump as it is now.
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Hi markr, welcome.
Just so you know, you're not the first to do that, and definitely not the last so welcome to the club. What's crazy is when someone runs out of fuel on a full tank – these are usually the folks that don't take preventive care of their fuel supply by testing for water and treating with a biocide when necessary.
To your question. Slightly loosen the secondary fuel filter and operate the lift (priming) pump. When non-aerated fuel flows from the filter, tighten it. You may also slightly loosen the fuel line nuts at the injectors and operate the lift pump but you may or may not get any fuel there because of the positioning of the individual injection pumps on the cam.
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