Bob Rooks

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  • in reply to: cooling problems #35596
    Bob Rooks
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      Well, you probably don't have a machinist's wedge, so reinstall three head bolts, one in the center and one at each end. Leave about one-half inch gap between the head of the bolt and the cylinder head. Crank the engine over once or twice. Now I'm assuming you have the head completely stripped down, rocker shaft, push rods, injectors, and all.

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      in reply to: Engine knocking #35595
      Bob Rooks
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        Rule #1 when disassembling machinery – make witness marks (thought you did that, sorry). Some people use center punches (one punch on each piece, two punches on each other piece, etc. (real handy on rods & caps)). I use a straight chisel to make an “X”, but I also use alpha-numeric steel stamps.

        Tommy is correct. The swirl chambers in the piston crowns face the side where the injectors are, and are almost always opposite of the camshaft.

        If there are markings on the con rods & caps, those marks usually face AWAY from the camshaft.

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        in reply to: jinma 254 air intake filter #35577
        Bob Rooks
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          Tricky solution. laugh

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          in reply to: decompression #35575
          Bob Rooks
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            If you want to pursue this further, I suggest removing the valve cover and inspect the rocker shaft mechanism.

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            in reply to: Jinma 284 will not turn over #35570
            Bob Rooks
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              Chichi wrote:

              “No ignition system on a diesel ? then how does the fuel ignite to operate the engine, you know make the pistons go up and down to create torque and horsepower to get your work done with the tractor.”

              Ahem,

              Do you see any spark plugs? Spark plug wires? Distributor? Coil? Carburetor?

              It's a compression-ignition engine not a spark-ignition engine.

              Time to hit the books and do some Googleing. readin

              Start with Rudolf Diesel. hailking

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              in reply to: Engine knocking #35558
              Bob Rooks
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                I have a Snap-On 1% accuracy torque wrench that I use.

                Snap-On Tools can check torque wrench calibration for you.

                Like Rich says; Correct torque is very important.

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                in reply to: oil pressure sender and decompression lever #35555
                Bob Rooks
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                  Without seeing  the sending unit up close, I can only speculate. Look real close at the other terminal to see if it is connected to the case. Some units are grounded that way, and some units will have that terminal connected to another gauge or power source.

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                  in reply to: Engine knocking #35551
                  Bob Rooks
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                    when you get the other torque wrench find a bolt that it real tight set the one to a couple different readings and compare the reading to the one you left loaded you might get lucky. you might be in the + – window

                    Can someone please translate that?

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                    in reply to: FEL control valve #35534
                    Bob Rooks
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                      If we didn't care, we wouldn't have said anything. cool

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                      in reply to: FEL control valve #35530
                      Bob Rooks
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                        I can't look, this is a train wreck.

                        Paolo, you MUST use schedule 80 heavy wall pipe fittings for ALL of the pressure side hydraulics otherwise they can burst under pressure and you can be killed!

                        Best case is skin impingement injection and blood poisoning.

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