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Roger wrote:
“Gotta remember to pick up some “stuff for checkin bearing clearances” (can't recall what it's called right now, dangit!) next time I am in town.”
It's called Plasti-gauge.
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As I stated earlier, weep holes are a waste of time because they plug up. You are much better off by just placing a soup can or cut off water bottle over the exhaust pipe – especially if you leave it parked out in the weather.
As Carl said, with the improvement in aluminized metals, I think the condensate drains in mufflers are gone. I checked my F-350 diesel and there is no drain holes anywhere.
But, you can do whatever you want.
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There is a small bolt or machine screw on each side holding the “ears” to the starter motor. Remove those after disconnecting the battery cable at the battery post, and disconnect the battery cable at the solenoid along with the small wire. There will be a link and a clevis pin with a cotter pin at the end of the solenoid – remove them and then lift off the solenoid, remove the rubber boot and the motor plunger will come out.
You can also remove the bakelite end by removing all of the nuts on the copper studs to check the relay contacts.
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This is where Carl and I disagree.
I say do not use any type of oil or grease in the solenoid motor (yes, that's the technical term for the coil and plunger) for two reasons:
1) Grease, when cold, adds high current draw to the coil because the plunger doesn't move easily
2) We all know that grease and oil attract dust and dirt like a magnet – the last thing you want in your starter
Instead, lubricate the solenoid motor with a graphite solution such as Lock-Eez or any good graphite spray. Your starter will thank you.
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What Carl says is true.
Also, using the correct terminology will help too. There is no ignition system on a diesel engine, hence no ignition switch. It's a key switch.
Make sure all of your electrical connections are good, including the battery posts and chassis ground connection. Make sure the transmission is in neutral, key switch is turned on, and then jump between the large and small terminals on the solenoid. Engine should start.
The reason for the key switch to be on is that there will be field current going to the alternator so it lessens the risk of damaging the voltage regulator.
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I was working at Truck R&D at the time. I was surprised at how much thought, time and energy went into such a seemingly trivial pursuit. But that's the way PACCAR is.
The wind can blow in any direction it wants to, but when it starts blowing fumes up my nose, it's time to change something.
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Since Cat, Cummins, Detroit Diesel. and Allis Chalmers didn't put drain holes in their exhaust manifolds, Kenworth Trucks decided to try them on the 90° exhaust fitting at the base of the stack(s). After one year of testing and observation it was determined that there was no cost benefit or maintenance saving, saying in effect they were more trouble to maintain than they were worth because they would clog frequently and expose untreated metal causing corrosion. That was the last I ever heard of it. 1974.
My dozer does not have a drain hole anywhere, nor does my skid steer, and personally I'd like to see all the exhaust go away from my smelling it. My dozer has a 90° and a slash cut tip, the skid steer has a 45° and a slash cut tip. If they were straight stacks they'd have rain caps. Period.
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