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You're in the ballpark anyway.
Happy seat time.
80 degrees Celsius is 176 degrees Fahrenheit.
The conversion formula is F = (C x 9/5) + 32.
I just turned 72.
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Modern engine lubricating oils perform best between 180°F and 200°F, but 170°F is better than nothing.
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The looks of those bearing inserts suggests very dirty oil. The center of the inserts are relatively clean where the oil enters but as it thins out toward the edges it's leaving deposits in the aluminum, and in some cases even pitting it. This symptom can be caused by several things:
A poor quality oil filter. Poor quality lube oil. Low oil pressure. High soot content in the oil. Oil is running too cold.
I would at least Plas-T-Gauge all of the remaining journals and mains.
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Your pics are a fine testament to your catskinner skills, and also to the capabilities of the Yuchai/Guilin dozer. Well done in my opinion.
Ever thought about setting up a camcorder on a tripod and taking a video?
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rdstevens wrote:
“How far do ya go before replacement is wiser than re-conditioning?”
That decision is usually made by cost weighting factors. How much does a new crank cost (incl. shipping) vs. a fully re-ground crank? Are oversize bearings even available? (there might be compatible alternatives – check with Federal-Mogul, etc.) It might be cheaper to just replace the rod.
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That bearing has spun. The indexing tab is missing on both halves. The crank will have to be removed and re-ground, regardless. You can mic the crank and compare it to specs to see if you can get away with .010″ on the grind. The rod and cap will also have to be reconditioned. That's a real bummer.
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That link didn't work for me, but the main constituent in gear oils, and particularly extreme pressure gear oils that causes problems is sulfur. Sulfur is used as a molecular binder in EP oils, but can cause dezincification in brass and it's lesser alloys. It will turn it into Swiss cheese. Most gear oils with a GL-4 rating are yellow friendly, it's the GL-5's you have to be careful of.
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If you remove the drain plugs on the bottom of the steering compartments, that will tell all.
These clutches are spring actuated, and are the dry type. If things start slipping like you describe, it sounds like they are being lubricated – and they're not supposed to be. Check the final drive and transmission oil levels.
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These are dry clutches. They could be wet clutches if it wasn't for the type of brakes used, but such is not the case.
It should be noted that the same clutch packs are used in marine, forklift, and industrial hydraulic transmissions here in the US. Twin Disc and Borg Warner are two of the largest manufacturers.
Northern Tool, Circle-G Tractor, and Keno Tractor have dozer parts, as well as many others.
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