Bob Rooks

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  • in reply to: Shuttle clutch… #35177
    Bob Rooks
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      Tame wrote:

      Ok, so the 'servo' is the small hydraulic ram on the left side of the housing that activates the shuttle yoke?

      No. The servos I was referring to are found inside the larger model shuttle clutches and operate spring loaded forward and reverse friction disc clutch packs through a planetary gear drive. I would call your clutch a hydraulic “reverser”.

      I have not noticed an accumulator anywhere… I can see one would soften the shuttle engaging though, so it would be a good idea.

      Accumulators are found on the later model shuttle clutches.

      I haven't done a service yet, so no idea of it's service record… I did check what I thought was all the oils when I got it (but I hadn't realized that the shuttle clutch housing was separate from the gearbox). The hydraulics was low on oil, and as it turned out was the shuttle housing.

      Does your tractor have two separate hydraulic pumps or does the clutch get it's pressure through the tractor hydraulics?

      The manual suggests “#20 gear oil or diesel engine oil grade T14” for the clutch housing… I have used 15W-40, is that ok?

      I wouldn't use engine oil in the clutch hydraulic system at all. In the later shuttle clutches I recommend ISO AW 220 Machine Oil, mainly because it is rated for geared friction drives and has an AGMA 4 rating.

      I going to attach a pic of the exploded diagram of the shuttle assembly, in case my old machine if different to the more modern ones.

      Yes, it is totally different, and I beleive it is only found on the two cylinder tractors.

      For the hydraulics I used the hydraulic oil as I use in our excavator.

      I assume that is ISO AW 32 or 46 hydraulic oil, and that's ok.

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      in reply to: Shuttle clutch… #35176
      Bob Rooks
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        Having problems posting.

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        in reply to: Jinma 284 Thermastat #35175
        Bob Rooks
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          The 75°C (167°F) t'stat is pretty cold. Most folks upgrade to the 180°F t'stat (to gain thermal effeciency) thats available through NAPA and other auto parts stores. Don't remember the p/n offhand but you can match it up easily if you take it in. My TY395 engine runs very well between 185°F and 190°F.

          You stand a good chance of overheating by removing the t'stat because the coolant doesn't spend enough time in the radiator to cool. This is a harmful situation.

          You can also get the OEM t'stats through any one of this sites supporting dealers.

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          in reply to: Shuttle clutch… #35172
          Bob Rooks
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            If I understand correctly, you're saying that with everything in neutral it shifts fine into reverse, but lugs the engine when you shift into forward. Correct?

            What that tells me is that your reverse servo is not releasing fully and creating a drag. This could be caused by several things from plugged oil passages in the servo shaft, a bent shaft, wrong oil type, to a bad (by-passing, or plugged) selector valve. Does the system use an accumulator?

            When is the last time the suction screen was cleaned?

            What type of oil are you using?

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            in reply to: Suggestions Sought #35168
            Bob Rooks
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              Glad to hear it. Did everything else check out ok? If the swing frame is tweaked or the pivot shaft is bent, you will be throwing tracks.

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              in reply to: 354 Jinma #35165
              Bob Rooks
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                How many hours on it, and when is the last time any maintenance was done?

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                in reply to: Suggestions Sought #35157
                Bob Rooks
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                  Front idler (guiding wheel).

                  Swing (track) frame (undercarriage frame weldment).

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                  in reply to: Jimna JW 03 aluminum pump #35156
                  Bob Rooks
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                    If you have a bad cylinder, it won't affect the whole system unless pieces of broken seal or debris have stuck in the relief valve. That means you have to takeitapart and clean it.

                    The large port should always be the inlet, but this is dependent on the rotation of the gears. You want the pump rotating in a manner which reveals the gears parting at/through the inlet port. The discharge port is always the smallest (or of equal size), and should show the gears coming together. You may have to rotate (not flip) the pump body 180° to accomplish this.

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                    in reply to: Suggestions Sought #35155
                    Bob Rooks
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                      There is also another way to do it without torching the track off but it's dangerous and involves rigging cables and a port-a-power so I'm not going to cover it here. Best to call a field mechanic.

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                      in reply to: Suggestions Sought #35154
                      Bob Rooks
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                        If the operation above is unsucsessful it will be necessary to break out the hot wrench and sacrifice a track link.

                         

                        You have to be really careful working in the woods with no guards.

                        So now, after it's all apart, you are going to have to measure the swing (track) frame to see if it's wracked and twisted, and also check the swing frame pivot shaft to see if it's bent. Also the transmission case where the pivot shaft attaches to see if it's cracked.

                         

                        There are classes available for equipment operators. I think they are a wise investment.

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