Bob Rooks

On Yuchai/Guilin dpzers, the idlers have sprocket teeth on them (why, is a good question). You picked up a log in your tracks, and that's easy with these machines that don't have rock guards.

First, loosen the bolt on the idler yoke that grips the track tensioner rod then back off the tensioner as far as it will go, although the idler may not follow it because it's wedged into the track.

Second. block up the right side of the machine so that the track clears the ground (you can use the dozer blade down pressure to assist with this). Strike that, I see you don't have a dozer wishbone.

Third, start the engine, and be very careful with this, put the transmission in reverse with the left brake fully applied (remember, you're on blocks), and try to roll the track back onto the idler, being very careful not to hit the shuttle clutch hydraulic lines. You should probably have a helper for this. More later.

I gotta say, I've seen a lot worse, but never seen a broken idler.

If this operation proves successful the track should have no tension on it, and you should be able to break the track. Midway between the idler and the top carrier roller would be the best spot.

This should keep you busy for awhile.

Personally, I wouldn't bother with an ammeter. Instead, install a voltmeter. Simpler to install and gives you better information.

I took my ammeter out and installed a voltmeter.

If you are a purist, then you would run the leads all the way to the battery posts (like I did, and be sure to put a 1-1/2 amp fuse in the line) to get the most accurate reading of the battery's charge state and eliminate any line losses. Don't feel bad if you don't do it that way.

White smoke is unburned fuel if it lingers in the air. I think Tinbender hit the nail on the head – a dribbling injector (stuck/dirty pintle) over-fuels the combustion chamber and you don't get complete combustion. Try slightly loosening the fuel line nut at the injectors, with the engine idling, to determine which one is bad, and replace it. I understand it is cheaper to replace with new (about $70.00) than to rebuild at a diesel shop.

I concur with Rich. I did my “50 hr.” engine service at 100 hrs., although I did, and do, check everything else at 50 hr, intervals unless symptoms requre otherwise.

Hi Andy, welcome.

You are not qualified to do this type of work unless you have a calibration bench (they run around $35,000.00 for a cheapie).

Individual parts are not sold on the retail market for any fuel injection pump/governor assembly for specific reasons.

If you are ambitious enough, and a qualified diesel mechanic with the appropriate training, you can replace the shaft seal by yourself but it is an involved process. Best to heed Tommy's advice.