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Aside from the wood being too porus as Ron states, I think the wood would be too forgiving and “spongy” as compared to concrete or rock.
I don’t think it expands all that much, unlike a wedge being driven into wood.
Try it, see if it works.
Bigger,
Even if it did float (which I doubt it would), I have nowhere to put it.
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I checked all around, can't find either product anywhere. They are online sales only for Washington state. Home Depot offers free shipping for the Ecobust, but it's 5-7 days away. So I rented a 35# blow Bosch demo hammer instead.
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Excellent suggestion Bert. Trying to find a local source for it, or Ecobust (same type of stuff).
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Thought of that but my neighbor is a Trident Sub Base. I don't think they would think a loud bang was funny.
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Forgot to mention that it's about 6' x 6' x about 5' tall and sticks up about 12″ above final grade. Demo hammer looks like the way to go, all the way around about 24″ from the top. Sigh. Was hoping for an easier solution.
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They said all the replacement parts and operations are the same, the difference is in the labor rate. However, they said they would pay anything over what the check was for. Not sure if I'm buying…
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When is the last time you drained, flushed, and refilled the fuel injection pump/governor assembly? The governor is not responding to speed changes. You have to remember that there is no direct mechanical linkage between the fuel rack and the throttle control.
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Ok, I have to clarify the “no modifications necessary” statement with the fan shroud. I meant the alternator fan shroud, which not all tractors have.
If someone has a Jinma wiring schematic I can mark up with the necessary changes, I'd be happy to do it. Make the file as large as possible and post it here or PM me.
PS: I'll need to know the output amp rating of the new alternator.
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Dean,
The 1,900 r/m they are referring to is the alternator speed, and depending on the pulley ratio could mean 900 to 1,000 r/m on your engine tach. You can always install a smaller alternator pulley to spin it up faster. The 10Si and 12Si have the same footprint as the OEM alternator and will fit directly with no modification unless you have the fan shroud.
It should be noted that both alternators are available with two or three wire leads (which translates to three or four leads if you include the heavy gauge positive wire). You want the two wire one. (Field, Sense, Output)
I installed a 72 amp Delco 12Si alternator and it works great. I highly recommend the model that pulls cooling air from the rear – it has a solid faced fan. You will be replacing your ammeter with a voltmeter, and installing higher capacity wiring. You will also remove your old voltage regulator from the system.
The OEM alternator is rated at around 14 amps max., so it barely keeps up with thje lights, let alone replenish the charge.
I have the alternator that I removed from the TY395 engine in my dozer that's available to you. It has about 100 hours on it and the regulator is included.
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FYI Don,
“Secondary wiring” and “ignition switch” are both terms used in spark ignition engines where secondary wiring refers to the high voltage spark plug wiring, and ignition switch refers to the primary side of the ignition circuit. These are simply and generically called key switches. It helps to eliminate confusion where diesel engines are concerned.
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