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rmon905:
As required by law (40 CFR Part 82, Subpart F), I am a Type l & ll certified “reefer/HVAC” tech. I'd be happy to help you if you run into a snag somewhere. Just PM me.
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Here is a typical LED replacement for sodium and mercury vapor bulbs, and it is only rated at 54 watts. The highest wattage output single LED I have seen so far is 5 watts, but typically they are rated at one watt each, so a 54 watt lamp would have 54 LED's, but that's not how LED lamps are rated for light magnitude anyway.
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I don't quite understand what you are attempting to do. Are you mounting these lights on a tractor? The lumenaires you are describing are used for street lighting.
Something else I don't understand: “trying to sve a few bucks I don't have”. In other words, you can't afford to do what you want to do?
LED technology changes rapidly, and prices are coming down, albeit at a much slower rate, so hang in there. If you were a lighting distributor you could get them wholesale, which means you could only knock about 35% off of those prices. I work for a state agency and we pay the going retail price, less volume discounts, so I doubt you will find what you're looking for at a cheaper price.
To my knowledge, a 3kW LED luminaire does not exist in the free world so maybe you're thinking of color temperature, which would be 3,000 kelvin (k), about the color of a bright sunset. 4,000k would be the color of the sun on a clear day at about 4:00PM, 5,100k at about high noon.
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The anchor points of the X'd sway chains have to be the same as the anchor points for the lift arms. You need to have a parallelogram when raising and lowering, then you don't really need the turnbuckles. You should however, have an adjustable top link in order to maintain the desired geometry or perpendicularity of the quick hitch. I did this on my dozer TPH which is the same as on the wheelies. Several other members have done this as well.
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roadster wrote:
I have scoured my injection pump, and find no oil drain on the bottom, or oil level plug forward of the hand pump, as some diagrams show. I have only the dipstick, and it is still showing diesel fuel. Whatever, it works, and most pumps use the fuel for lubrication anyway, I am told.
The fuel only lubricates the barrels and plungers, not the camshaft and governor. One or more of your barrel and plunger assemblies has failed.
You will be replacing the injection pump assembly soon anyway, so you might as well just keep going until it fails.
My fuel injection pump is the same as yours – no tattletale hole or drain. I use a Mighty-Vac. No big deal.
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Tom, that 5 kW inverter will probably come back to bite you if you haven't upgraded your alternator. Your OEM alternator and regulator are only rated for 14 amps (1,000 watts @ 12 volts nominal).
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TreeEng wrote:
Based on your comments Bob;
1) Is there a simple O-ring I should be changing to fix this.
2) Buy a new pump now for the day when I do start to have symptoms.
Or do I need to supply more data to make a determiniation?
It's pretty unlikely that O-ring is bad because it's lubed from the injection pump sump, easy to change but requires dismantling the lift pump, which should be removed from the injection pump assembly to make life easier.
I would change the oil in the injection pump and monitor it closely to see how rapidly it becomes diluted again. As I stated before, the individual barrels and plungers have no seals, they are lap-fitted and lubricated by the fuel, so any kind of dirt or contamination in the fuel will damage them. It's a good idea to use a diesel fuel additive as a sulfur substitute.
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Fido wrote:
“Bob, I remember you suggesting a better coolant at one time. What is it? Does it heat transfer better?”
Yes, a lot better, but the main thing is to keep the cooling system clean and free from anything that clings to steel & iron (I have a cooling system filter).
A lot of folks use Final Charge coolant, including myself.
Others that are more affluent use Evans Waterless coolant, where the ultimate protection is needed.
It should be noted that recent practices are going away from using the traditional ethylene-glycol anti freeze mix in diesel engines.
You can mount the coolant recovery reservoir virtually anywhere on the tractor. It doesn't have to be near the radiator, that is just for convenience, just so long as it's installed correctly. Maybe under the operator's seat.
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