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The only seal is located on the lift pump push rod and that is merely an O-ring. The individual injector pumps (barrels & plungers) have no seals, they are lapped to a very close tolerance and are not sold individually for these engines, and it doesn't take an awful lot of contaminated fuel to destroy them. Diesel bugs are very corrosive and can bring an engine to it's knees in very short order. Hope that's not your problem.
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these are inexpensive machines and their primary fuel filtering is wanting.the spinon filter is the secondary filter,it's right where it's supposed to be.you should have a screen in your sediment bowl that also acts as a primary filter.clean and leave the screen in the lift pump banjo bolt.you can add a better primary fuel filter if you want to.
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ISO AW 100. Scroll down on the right to see the specs. This is a custom formulated synthetic hydraulic oil. My guess it's out of our pocket books.
I use a multi-grade hydraulic oil AW32-46-68 with excellent results in all weather conditions (in Wash. state). I wouldn't use UTF mainly because you are throwing money away, and it is not specified for straight hydraulic systems. You will be fine with ISO AW 32 or ISO AW 46 hydraulic oils. Try not to use straight AW machine oil, and especially engine oil
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That’s entirely possible. There could be an internal crack in the casting and it wouldn’t leak or open up until it was hot enough. These engines don’t have oil coolers like the higher end machines do so they have the oil heat indirectly carried away by the cooling system (the oil can run 10 -20 degrees hotter than the coolant), which is another thing to check. Make sure the radiator fins are impeccably clean when running under high r/m loads when the ambient temperature is high, also make sure the engine coolant passages are clear. A good chemical flush and rinse will take care of that, and the use of a high quality coolant such as Final Charge or equivalent, will make a big difference
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You will probably find, as I have, that you can extend oil change intervals. I currently have over 250 hours on my engine oil and it's fine.
I'm using Delo 400 15w-40. Shell Rotella-T is another good brand for example.
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Try here. $25.00.
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At this point, before you do anything else, I would invest $25.00 and send in a lube oil sample for analysis. It will tell you if the oil is diluted with fuel (you can't always trust your nose), what type of metals are in it, how much soot and sludge are present, and if there is any coolant leaking to it. It will also tell you if the additive package has failed (foaming and aeration of the oil). Or, you can change the oil & filter and see if that helps. My speculation says it won't.
I have to ask what type and brand of oil are you using, and what is the ambient temperature when you are working the tractor?
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