Bob Rooks

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  • in reply to: steering brake replacement #34735
    Bob Rooks
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      Yep, that’s a pretty eccentric machining job. I wonder if they used the OD of the drum for their center base line? In any event, I hope you replaced it with a new one. Glad to hear it’s all getting back together. And any seasoned mechanic that’s been around heavy equipment will tell you that stranger things have happened, even with domestic products. Even though the original fault lies in the machining of the part, it is also incumbent of quality control personnel and the final assembler to spot these defects.

       

      There are people out there that do this type of work 365/24/7, and often in the worst situations and weather imaginable, and they make it look easy.

      “A good mechanic isn't expensive, he's priceless”

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      in reply to: ANOTHER oil topic #34700
      Bob Rooks
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        Nice clip: The 3,000 mile myth.

         

        Interesting read:

        In July 1996, Consumer Reports published the results of a two-year motor oil test involving a fleet of 75 New York taxi cabs and found no noticeable advantage of synthetic oil over regular mineral oil. In their article, they noted that “Big-city cabs don’t see many cold start-ups or long periods of high-speed driving in extreme heat. But our test results relate to the most common type of severe service – stop-and-go city driving.” According to their study, synthetic oil is “worth considering for extreme driving conditions: high ambient temperatures and high engine load, or very cold temperatures.”

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        in reply to: ANOTHER oil topic #34697
        Bob Rooks
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          Truth is, your friend would have got that engine life with just regular oil and judicious oil and filter changes.

          Tell him to hit the books and do some research before he makes wild claims in the future. How does he substantiate his claim of “I figured that way I'd get the moleculer benifits of synthetic without spending a ton on 5 quarts of it”! “. I find it totally amazing how guys like that can know more than a lubrication engineer with several related degrees (not me though, but I rely on their knowledge).

          I'll add more later if time permits.

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          in reply to: Posible hyd. pump failure #34695
          Bob Rooks
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            Carl wrote:

            “Unlike some that seek advise I will post the results one way or the other. “

            Thanks Carl, I really appreciate that. hailking

            If your pump performance has been degrading over a years time then I agree, it's pump time.

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            in reply to: Engine won’t start #34689
            Bob Rooks
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              Here is a breakdown pic of your fuel system. Unscrew the large knurled knob on the pump and it will pop up. This is the priming pump. Push it down an tighten it when you are through.

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              in reply to: hot hydraulic pump and FEL is odd. #34688
              Bob Rooks
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                Some alternators will have air pumps built into them as part of the EPA equipment.

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                in reply to: Posible hyd. pump failure #34687
                Bob Rooks
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                  Hydraulic pumps usually don't go out that quickly, unless there is a catastrophic failure, like deadheading or drive coupling failure.

                  I don't know a lot about wheeled tractor hydraulic circuitry but I would start checking valves first.

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                  in reply to: External hydralic filter #34684
                  Bob Rooks
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                    I believe someone installed a suction mesh filter (looks like a spin-on filter but it's actually a 150 mesh wire gauze element). The installation should be pretty straightforward, and the parts are easy to come by. I think you have to remove the in-tank screen. Sorry I couldn't be more help. It's not a dozer.

                    roflmao

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                    in reply to: Engine won’t start #34683
                    Bob Rooks
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                      Well don't feel alone. laugh I've had to follow quite a few ham-handed grauncher mechanics in my day. I think they breed. evil

                      So when you reinstalled the new filter did you fill it with clean fuel first?

                      Did you bleed all the air from the fuel system with the priming pump, including the fuel injection pump and the injectors before you tried to start it?

                      If it ran before, no reason it shouldn't run again. wink

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                      in reply to: updating the puny alternator o na nt254 #34682
                      Bob Rooks
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                        While we’re on the subject of alternators, does anyone have a number for that “short” pulley that bob16925 found?

                         

                        Well I couldn't wait any longer. roflmao

                        It's Delco #1961291

                        66mm OD x 17mm bore x 13mm (1/2″) “A” belt.

                        The stock pulley is over 80mm OD, so this will definitely spin faster.

                        Note & FYI: This may be an issue if you are keeping the stock belt, which I believe was a B-section belt, and is wider. I'm using the link-belt from Harbor Freight which is an A-belt but it runs fine and true in the engine and water pump pulleys so not an issue for me.

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