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Interesting. I wonder if they will offer the shuttle clutch then?.
Will that be the time to toss that coin again?
I've also heard rumblings about Yuchai having a hydrostatic drive model in R&D (not to be confused with power shift transmissions, which is a completely different bird).
I had a dream quite awhile back. I dreamed I pulled the drive motors and pumps out of my skid steer and put them in the dozer…
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Biggerten wrote:
“Bob IS wrong in his post #2 where he talks about the high resistance of the glow plugs drawing down the voltage. It's the LOW resistance (and hence high current draw) that does that. I bit my tongue until now, 'cuz I know he knows what he's talking about and just mis-spoke.
Ur right Tom. I know I was thinking the right thing but it came out backwards somehow. Gad! I hope I don't do that at work.
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Semantics are very important when it comes to understanding technical issues. Oftentimes meanings and descriptions get lost, bastardized, or clouded by using colloquial and slang iterations.
Btw, all of those links are dead.
It's all good. Good luck.
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Dogdoc,
If you purchased a starter relay (no such thing as a “starter solenoid switch”) , your tech support guy isn't very knowledgeable. Typically, a starter relay is rated for well over 200 amps momentarily, and because their designed service is momentary they don't have a continuous rating. Your glow plugs are only going to draw 25 amps max. and that diminishes as they warm up. I assume you will only use your glow plugs momentarily anyway.
If you want to get into continuous duty relays then you are talking latching relays, and I don't do those here.
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The fuel system is in no way connected to the cooling system, so therefore it must come from the tank. Sorry, no other options. Do you park it outside in the rain? Water is semi-miscible with fuel and you can’t always see the interface.
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Are you using Kolor Kut to test your fuel?
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To further clarify: A solenoid is an electro-mechanical actuator, usually mounted on the starter motor to pull out the Bendix drive, engaging the flywheel. A relay is a “switch”. The starter relay Tinbender was referring to will work just fine, the generic relay I was referring to is rated for 40 amps and will work just fine also – it's what I used for starter and glow plugs. You may use either. Your call.
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Tinbender raises a good point, one which I forgot to mention. If/when you install a relay, it's a good idea to also install a 5 amp fuse or circuit breaker on the relay's contact coil feed wire.
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What Rich said is true, however nothing really needs to be re-wired. Simply remove the existing (blue?) wire from the bus bar and use it for the relay coil feed. Run a new 10 gauge wire from the battery terminal on the starter solenoid to one leg of the relay contacts, then run another new 10 gauge wire from the other relay contact leg back to the glow plug bus bar. I recommend using a 40 amp relay. This same mod is recommended for use in the starter solenoid circuit. I have done both mods and it makes a world of difference. Performing these mods prolongs the life of the key switch by keeping high amperage loads away from it.
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Grizz wrote:
“I guess that's one question I have. Is it “standard procedure” that every time you work on anything hydraulic you have to drain the tank?”
No, absolutely not, especially if what you are working on is higher than the reservoir or downstream of the valve stack, like changing cylinders that are not under a load, etc. You might get whats in the hose though.
My next issue after this one is to swap the lines going to the tilt cylinder. Should I just drain the system and do all this at once? Was kinda hoping it didn't work that way.
Swapping tilt cylinder lines shouldn't be a problem at all, I'd do it right at the cylinder.
What I found was two very stiff o-rings. Not a big deal there. But I also found a few metal shavings. They are attracted by a magnet so I'm guessing steel. It wasn't a lot of shavings maybe three or four about maybe 0.5mm long..probably smaller. My feeling is they shouldn't be there at all.
First off, the O-rings shouldn't be stiff, and there shouldn't be two of them in the same cavity. My guess is that you need a larger O-ring. Secondly, I agree with your thoughts. Metal shavings of any kind are bad ju-ju. I'm thinking you should drain the reservoir, drag it with a magnet, and inspect the suction screen. If that is the pressure side hose that leads to the valve stack then the shavings have already passed through the pump and were headed to the valves. This is why there are pressure side filters – to protect the valves. Not really necessary here though.
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