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Voltage loss is because the high resistance of the glow plugs is drawing the battery down. Kinda like leaving your car lights on. Did you purchase the tractor new? How old is your battery? Sounds like it could be a little weak.
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I use it with a box scraper, scraper/grader, rock rake, 17' crane, 1,000 lb. counterweight (for the FEL), and a 7-1/2' back hoe.
Basically, anything that attaches to the rear of the tractor is hung on the quick hitch.
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Roy wrote:
PTO driven pumps are about $400 plus shipping on eBay, I won't use the backhoe much, but if I really need one I'll buy one.
Even if you only use it occasionally, you will want it to perform well when you do.
Suggest you brush up on hydraulics. To paraphrase Biggerten: You can't tee into an open center system and expect it to work. You must either use the tractor's integrated hydraulic system or use an independent PTO system utilizing the BH's reservoir.
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The adapter is all I use now. This is an old pic, before I installed the hydraulic top link.
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What Tinbender said is correct. I have a Harbor Freight quick hitch, albeit slightly modified, that I think is the best thing since sliced bread.
Some implements do not meet the ASABE (the old ASAE division of ANSI) standards. These are usually older, pre-’80’s implements.
I had to modify my backhoe to fit my quick hitch, but I can have it on or off in about 30 seconds.
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OK, but I've personally witnessed hot-dipped galvanized grade 8 bolts and nuts. Someone else broke the rules, not me.
I think you are doing a great job on the sub frame and if it were me, I'd just go with grade 5 zinc coated and paint it. If you have issues with clamping power you can use fine threads. It's not like you will be using it on an ocean beach all year long. Or will you?
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That is really sad IMHO. The poor chap has successfully described a flow-check valve which has been around since I can't remember when, and it doesn't divert ANYTHING! It merely stops the flow. It's not the same thing. In the brake system model depicted, the flow of brake fluid to the front brake cylinders isn't diverted to the rear at all (this shows what they know about vehicle systems), instead the flow to the front is merely blocked and the remaining pressure and volume go to the rear cylinders. And besides, brake systems aren't plumbed that way anyway. Most of us under-educated folks know that vehicle brake systems have been dual systems since the early 70's? And they are diagonal or “X”'d, in that one circuit of the dual piston master cylinder controls one front brake and the opposite rear brake, and the other circuit controls the other front brake and the opposite rear brake. So, if there is a failure in one circuit you stand a much better chance of not skidding out of control. Since the late 70's with the introduction of anti-lock systems (they were initially called anti-skid but that was a bold faced lie.), I understand that there have been changes in the plumbing logic but I can't be sure what they are.
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