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Did you try bluing the seats to see where the contact point is on the valve face?
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Not at all familiar with that engine, but the differences in the valves could be:
Different face angles (3 or 4 angles).
Different materials – stellite and/or sodium cooled exhaust valves.
Different stem diameters.
Replaceable guides.
Different type of rotators.
Head diameters.
The list could be long.
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I have always used a fuel additive to help keep the fuel fresh and also use injector cleaner at regular intervals.
Curious what kind of additive you are adding to your fuel.
Is it a cetane booster? Is it an anti-gel for winter use? Does it contain a biocide?
Is the injector cleaner you are using specifically formulated for diesel engines?
What color was the sludge in the sediment bowl, brown or black?
My money is on Tinbender that you have a dose of diesel bugs, which is not good. Here is a quick primer on the subject: http://www.oillab.co.nz/diesel_bug_explained
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Had a valley start leaking and had several people besides myself look at it and no one see’s anything wrong. It’s a closed valley and 50 year shingles – shouldn’t be having this problem. I bought a bag of matching granuals and tared and granualed the valley with no luck. I was looking online and came across this stuff called Thru The Roof. It had over 200 good reviews. I ordered two gallons and brushed it on. It’s totally clear so it doesn’t look bad. It fixed it!
That’s good to know. Bet it would work on steel roofs too.
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Why are you posting this on the tractor club forum? It seems kind of unappropriate here to me.
Relax Jack, chill, it’s in the “General Chit-Chat” forum. You can post anything here. Doesn’t even have to be tractor related.
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The type of engine has a lot to do with how it starts in colder weather. This is even true of older vs. newer Caterpillar engines. The Indirect Injection (IDI) engines are notoriously cold blooded, and need all the help they can get in extremely cold conditions, whereas the Direct Injection (DI) need very little, if any, help at all. Quanchi may have different combustion chamber configurations for different model engines.
Here is info on the flame start system by Borg Warner (same principle).
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That’s how I got oversize oil filters for my excavator engine. Used the Baldwin and NAPA websites to cross over to a WIX filter, then went to el-cheapo parts house where all they know is to look it up on a computer, to purchase them.
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Wix, Baldwin, NAPA, and others have online cross references where you can match filters by dimension and thread size. You can also take your old filter into a knowledgeable parts house and a good parts person can match it for you.
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Oops. Sorry I forgot to mention. I used 1/16″ copper washers that I made, but I think you could also use aluminum. Either will crush to make a seal.
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On my LW-6 all the hoses were 1/2″ ID. That really made it fast and powerful. Too fast indeed. I started with a 1/8″ orifice and worked up to 1/4″ in 1/32″ increments to get the desired results for me. You may want a little slower or faster depending on your needs. Installing orifices does not affect the power. I found it curious that my LiTW BH7600 backhoe had all 1/4″ hoses. When I installed a hydraulic thumb on my excavator I used all 1/4″ hoses and it works great.
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