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I ordered a three-point-hitch pallet fork from them online about eight months ago, and it was shipped from one of their Midwest stores to Washington state. It was all done online. But, when I found out that it wouldn’t work with a quick hitch they bent over backwards and sent me an adapter (which didn’t work either) trying to make it work for me. Many emails ensued, and finally they bought it back and made an update in their catalogues stating it wouldn’t work with quick hitches.
I have found several companies that won’t take credit cards over the phone. It’s a security thing.
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Well, the fuel injection pump and governor share a common sump in this case. The only things that get oil lubricated are the camshaft, lift pump cam follower, and the governor. The barrel and plunger assemblies are fuel lubricated. There is absolutely no advantage, or necessity, in using the ISO 100 oil. It only has a AGMA rating of 3 which makes it undesirable for that application anyway. I would stick with 15w-40 motor oil, it is less costly, reduces inventory, and less vulnerable to fuel dilution which is not uncommon with these pumps.
AW oil has an anti-wear formulation. Viscosity Grade (VG) oils may or may not have the AW formulation. The VG oils without the AW designation are cheaper, though most are derived from the same paraffinic base stock.
Have a super day. :yes:
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Injection pump uses ISO 100 (air compressor tool oil)
With all due respect Trevor, I feel compelled to ask why you specify ISO 100 “air compressor tool oil” in such an application? As you are presumably aware that Cat, Cummins, Deutz, Volvo, Mitsubishi, Mercedes Benz, Nissan, et al, all have integrated injection pump lubricating systems that use the same oil that is in the engine. Even the air brake system compressors on class 7 and 8 trucks use engine oil. In addition, I cannot find any correlation between an “air compressor tool” and a fuel injection pump/governor. I’m pleading ignorance. Please enlighten us.
Addendum: Most of the free world refers to your “h-46” as ISO AW 46. :yes:
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“Tractor boys” says a lot. Safe bet not one of them has a lubrication engineering background. I’ll just say this – do NOT use any type of ATF in your hydraulic system. Use ISO AW 32 or ISO AW 46 (brand does not matter). Ideally, use a multi-grade hydraulic oil ISO AW 32/46/68. It has you covered for all ambient operating temperatures and has an AGMA rating of 4 (as does ISO AW 46). Now go do what you will.
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Sand, ground glass, and water are fluid. :yahoo:
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Bob, why did you go with the 12si?
Larger frame and more copper, plus the shielded fan and rear air intake.
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FYI, marine alternators are available up to around 250 amps output, but are not explosion proof. See http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=1096
Explosion proof alternators are here (and way beyond my pocketbook) http://www.compliantpowersystems.com/?page_id=813 (I’m previously a boatyard owner, marine engineer, catskinner, and currently a Chief Engineer).
The Prestolite TEFC alternator is here http://www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/specs.php?item_detail_id=19399&item=8TA2034G&product=Alternator These are the same type as the OEM Chinese alternators. The Delco 10Si series seems to be the economical choice. I installed a 80 amp Delco 12Si alternator on my dozer.
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It is advantageous to install a smaller pulley on the Delco alternator so it will charge at low r/m’s. The Delco’s have the same footprint as the Chinese alternators so there is minimal modification. David is correct in that you will have to upgrade the wiring to handle the increased capacity. You can also install LED work lights, which are far superior in performance over halogen at much less the amperage draw. Another consideration is the type of alternator you select. Ideally, one with a closed face fan that draws cooling air from the rear so the alternator doesn’t get packed with crap thrown at it by the engine fan. The ideal replacement is a Prestolite TEFC alternator but they are pricey. Are you going with a one-wire or three-wire?
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The mica undercutting is good as long as it isn’t too deep. If the brushes are too soft the undercut will fill and cause arcing over on the com. Make sure the brushes are profiled correctly to the com.
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I change oil by analysis. It tells me how much fuel dilution I have, how much coolant contamination, if the oil has “broken down”, aluminum, brass, cast iron, steel, and TBN. I currently have about 300 hours on the engine oil and it is perfect.
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