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Just bumping this thread. I took a video of my EGT's through the manifold wall and shielded the fan draft. I took two series of checks, one on the top of the manifold, and one on the side. I just got back to civilization so will process the video soon.
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Not sure what bolt you’re talking about. Pictures would help. If there are no threads showing on the adjusting rod then it’s screwed in all the way. Try unscrewing it. I assume your track is slack.
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Your type of shuttle clutch, if it is the type I'm thinking of, does not require the special oil. Yours will use the same as in your hydraulic system – ISO AW 46.
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If there is a grease fitting where the adjusting rod goes into the spring cylinder give it a few shots of grease, that may help some. If not, back out (unscrew, tighten track) the rod and apply penetrating oil liberally to the threads and then screw back in to slacken the track. Extreme care must be taken when disassembling the tensioner. Make sure there is absolutely no tension on the bolts before removing them all the way. You may have to use longer bolts on the end cap before the spring is completely relaxed. Place them opposite of each other. Reassemble in reverse order.
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You will have to remove the lift box cover (heavy) and reinstall the lift piston in the cylinder, and consequently adjust the piston stop.
Oils:
15w-40 oil for the engine (Chevron Delo or Shell Rotella or equivalent).
Transmission: 80w-90 gear oil.
Shuttle clutch (if you have the type with external hydraulic cylinders): ISO AW 46 hydraulic oil.
Final drives: 85w-140 gear oil.
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These track tension adjusters are spring tension only (no grease pump-up), although there may be a grease fitting on yours where the adjusting rod goes into the round spring housing. If you have parts and owners manuals, this will be explained.
There is also a lock bolt on the idler yoke, in addition to the lock nut on the adjusting rod, that must be loosened before you can turn the adjusting rod. If it's been a while since the tracks were adjusted these components may be frozen and require a penetrant.
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Just as a curiosity I'll run the thermo check on my TY395 dozer engine too. I'll perform the test at 1,500 r/m no load speed at operating temp. We can compare notes.
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And let the engine run with the fan shielded for at least three minutes before taking your reading, allowing the manifold temps to equalize.
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