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The #1 cylinder being cooler because of the coolant pump is pure bunk. I've operated many diesels large and small with thermocouples, never had an issue like that. The temperature you were measuring was of the exhaust gasses after combustion. The only way those temps would be lower would be inadequate combustion, which could be caused by lower compression from incorrect valve lash. Whitish grey smoke is unburned fuel or coolant in the combustion chamber. Glad you're happy with the fix, but I suggest doing another quick shielded thermometer check to be sure.
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Yes, I agree. You can also get an oil analysis performed for about $25 and that will tell you a lot. Maybe more than you want to know.
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It appears that the blade pan weldment is held in place by the blade bolts and the main shaft blade nut and washer. Removal seems pretty straightforward, but I would figure on replacing the blade bolts with kits.
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What are you calling “stump jumpers”?
https://
store.germanbliss.com/bush-hog-sq84t-squealer-rotary-cutter-base-assembly-sq84t-parts
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Are you certain the new unit is the correct type?
Have you double checked the wiring connections?
I apologize. I misunderstood your post I guess.
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Screw it in until it touches the flywheel and then back it out 3/4 turn and lock it. If you didn't do that I'm surprised you got any reading at all.
Why did you replace it if the old one was working?
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That has no effect on exhaust gas temperature Trevor, it is a compression issue, but due to the presence of blue smoke I suspect broken piston rings.
A dribbling injector can cause knocking from over-fueling on one cylinder, but since that has been discounted by switching injectors, that is not the cause. Injector timing will not cause this.
Bear in mind that #1 cylinder is closest to the fan so that portion will run cooler on the surface. Try your thermo test again this time shielding the manifold from fan air.
You're doing good.
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Don't know what I was thinking. To shorten the ROPS all you need to do is cut off the amount you need from the ends of the four stanchions and drill new holes for the pins.
Transfer hole locations before you cut. Wouldn't that be easier?
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