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Sounds like your dozer is down for the count. If the bevel gear case is cracked, that's going to be time consuming and expensive to replace. Consider taking it to a machine shop. The ROPS, both saddlebags, both final drives, steering clutches and brakes, swing frames and tracks, and dozer wishbone will have to be removed. In short, it has to be stripped, and the bevel gear case will have to be removed from the transmission. I have never heard of this component failing before. You are going to have to go deep into the machine to repair it. Hopefully, I'm misunderstanding you and the required repairs will be more simple.
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The Spirax S3-G is a good oil for the transmission and “transfer case” in the appropriate weight. Don't even think of using it for the clutch – way too heavy.
Not sure where you get “sewing machine” oil, but here is a guide you can use to find substitute oil. And yes, that price is about right. Please bear in mind that I'm making recommendations based on my education as an engineer and many years of experience in the field, but you are under no obligation to follow them.
http://www.duboischemicals.com…..0Guide.pdf
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Two years? Yep, you're out of warranty.
Sounds like the track was over tightened and then got a rock in the sprocket. I think your best bets for those final drive parts are going to be Circle-G, Northern Tool, or Yuchai directly. There may be others.
Good luck.
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Sorry to hear that. What was he doing when it broke?
Those can be repaired with welding or brazing at a good machine shop.
Did you buy the dozer new and how long ago?
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Hi Jeff,
Yes, I'm familiar with the OEM lubricant recommendations, however there is a lot lost in the translations. The shuttle clutch should be using ISO AW 220 machine oil. This oil is recommended for geared friction drives and has an AGMA grade rating of 5. Any brand can be used as long as it meets those specs. In my opinion this is the best selection for this type of drive that uses planetary gearing and friction clutches. You can also use Caterpillar TO-4 if you have a lot of disposable income.
There have been other owners that say shuttle clutch performance was greatly improved after switching. The clutch also runs cooler.Yes, that is a hydraulic accumulator in the left saddlebag. That acts as a cushion and also stores pressure (about 40 psig). The clutch packs are engaged by spring force (kind of counterintuitive) and disengaged by servos using hydraulic pressure. The clutch oil must be drained in order to clean the strainer. This system should be impeccably clean.
What they are calling the “transfer case” is actually the bevel gear case which has a common sump with the transmission. This is a high gear tooth loading arrangement and requires an EP lubricant, hence the 85W-90 gear oil.
Did you know there is a dealer for these dozers in Oregon? KENO Tractor in Keno, OR.
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What is the “transfer case”? Do you mean the transmission and bevel gear compartment? If so, that's supposed to have 80W-90 gear oil in it, and 85W-140 gear oil in the final drives (one each side). And I'll wager that neither of you gentlemen are running the correct oil in your shuttle clutches. On the bottom side of the shuttle clutch there is a bolted flange that contains a strainer. This strainer must be cleaned periodically.
Who uses 30W oil in these engines? What is the API rating of that 30W oil?
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First, to avoid confusion, there is no ignition system on a modern diesel engine, but there IS a key switch.
The red “battery light indicator” is actually a diagnostic tool that tells you that there is excitation current going to the alternator field circuit. You cab verify this with an alternator schematic. This light will be on as long as your key switch is on. You should also have an ammeter or voltmeter to measure alternator performance. If you just have a charge indicator light, it will be on when the key switch is on but the engine not running. It will go out as engine speed increases and may come back on dimly when the engine idles.
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Did you try Circle-G or Yuchai directly? Might be able to have a machine shop make a few.
Do you have a part number?
Not sure what splined bushing you are referring to.
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