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I was able to drop the 3 point by jacking the blade up to relieve the pressure and turning the locking screw counter clockwise. I put the lift/drop lever in ‘neutral’ positon, dropped and removed my jack. Then moved the lift drop lever into the drop position and bingo, problem solved. Note to remember here, Don’t screw in the locking screw to all the way!!!
I have a 2008 Jinma 284. I do have the front loader attached. I can lift the bucket and tilt the bucket, no issues there. I changed the hydraulic filter yesterday and topped the hydraulic fluid off with the front loader in the lowered position and the rear hydraulic lift also in the lower position. All this was done before changing the implement.
It is the needle valve, in front of the seat, that you were speaking about that will not unscrew. I do have the control arm in the lowering position, in hopes that the blade will drop. I did stand and hop on it to hopefully lower it, but no go. Is there a way to release the hydraulic pressure another way by undoing a hydraulic connection somewhere?
As for the steering, it has been an issue for some time. Sometimes it would work fine, other times not. When it wasn’t working fine, if I lowered the rear hydraulic lift a bit, or tilted the bucket back into the upper, the steering would work again. My early thought was that there may have been air in the line. I think I have ruled that out as a possibility by lifting the front end and turning the wheels back and forth a number of times while engine running.
Okay, as for the steering, and for diagnostic purposes, I disconnected both hydraulic lines from the steering cylinder. Started the engine and turned the steering wheel. Steering left I get fluid coming out of one of the hose, steering to the right, barely anything out of the opposite hose. I would have thought steering the opposite direction would pump fluid through the other line. Is this normal?
Thanks for all the input. I did get the drive shaft apart over the weekend. The ball bearings did fall out on the spring side of the shaft. I put it all back together and it worked for about an hour. I am not sure, but I feel that the spring, that that holds the star washer and ultimately the balls in place, doesn’t have enough pressure to hold the star washer in place. Do I have the right assumption other than bad design?
Where can I purchase a set of chains for a Jinma 284? I live in the hills southwest of Denver, and I figure better to have them and not need them, then to need them and not have them. Just like a side arm.
Thanks for the reply. I pulled the voltage regulator and turned the switch to ‘ON’ and I didn’t get the voltage drop. I then pulled the whole fuse box and cleaned all the connections and used Di-Electric grease on all the connections. While doing this, I found the voltage wire going to the voltage regulator had come out of the housing. I directly connected it to the regulator and saw that it was extremely loose on the terminal. I slightly squeezed down on it before returning it to the fuse box and put the regulator back in its place. Much better. Turned the key and the gauges fired up. Very good sign. Attempted to turn over, but wouldn’t start, bit cold here in Colorado. Plugged the block heater in and checked the battery connections. Little loose on the positive terminal. Heated the block about 30 minutes, started right up.
I hate tracing electrical.
Case Closed
I have changed out the switch. When I turn to ‘on’ my voltage drops from 12.x to .7 and none of the gauges engage. What the hell did I do wrong?
Before I head home, if there is air in the line, what is the procedure for bleeding the hydraulic fluid, I am assuming basically the same a brakes for a car.
