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Good day all!
Hope everyone is safe from all the bad weather last week. I want to put an Amp meter/guage in my dash on my Jinma 354 (4) cylinder. mIs there a special way to wire the guage in? Should I connect directly to the alternator/generator or is there another palce where it should be connected?
Thanks
Len
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David & Piper
Thanks for the quick responses. I was looking at several Amp gauges and some of the instruction have the wiring connected with a “Shunt”. I guess I’ll try to find the wire to the “Idiot” light on my panel a connect it there. Basically I just have to put the gauge between the power input and my Key Ignition? I can wire a house, but never really wired a vehicle except to replace exsisting wires (that the darn squirrels chewed up).
I am also in the process of putting a mechanical & electric oil gauga and a digital volt meter in my dash. I figured I would also install a Amp gauge to see excatly what my alternator is putting out or the power drain. I also want to change out my current lights to LED and add big LED light bars to the top of my roof front & back in case I have to use the FEL or BH at night.
Another thing: Is the horn the round metal disk attached to the fuse bar located on top of the engine valve cover? If it isn’t the horn what is it and where is the horn located? I have a “Horn” switch on my dash with all the other light switches and also a button for the horn on the steering wheel. I checked the power to both and they have power, but no horn noise with engaged. Hasn’t worked since the tractor was new.
Thanks again
Len
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Hi Len,
No, don’t wire it to the idiot light. That could mess up the voltage regulator.
The purpose of the amp meter is to show current flow of the whole system.
Follow the positive wire from the battery to the post on the starter. That is just a connection point and does not involve the starter motor. It then goes through the master fuse (30 A) and then to the gauge then to the hot side of the switch. With the key off, nothing is flowing anywhere. When you turn the key to run, then all other circuits (except the alternator) are fed through the switch. If you trace the wires you will see that the idiot light is connected to the regulator and is not fed through the amp meter.
David was right, if you take the hot wire off of the switch (the one from the 30A fuse) and put it on the gauge where it is marked – Then connect the the gauge side marked + back to the switch where you took the other wire off you will have the gauge inserted into the main trunk of the system. It will be in the circuit between the alternator and the battery where it can indicate flow to/from the battery.
I am surprised you tractor didn’t have a gauge in the first place. Do you have a wiring diagram for your specific tractor? Jinma usually put little plastic tags with numbers on the wires for identification.
What you described as a horn sure sounds like it is. A picture would tell for sure. Also, there is a relay involved. If you are seeing battery voltage at the switch but nothing happens there are two possibilities. 1) the switch is not connecting to ground or 2) the relay is not closing properly. Follow the path from the battery, through the fuse and down to the relay. From there you can see where completing the circuit through the switch will activate the relay and connect terminals 30 and 87 internally.
To test the horn connect a jumper wire to a hot connection point (battery, starter, or B terminal on alternator) and momentarily touch the terminal on the horn. Also, you can put a test light or VOM on the terminal and watch it while hitting the switch. No light is probably a switch or relay problem. If you are getting power to the horn but no sound it is a ground problem or a bad horn. You can replace it with any 12V horn you can find at any auto store.
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Well I finally got the Gauges installed. Took a while to get the correct wire for the ampmeter, but it works. I also put an additional mechanical oil pressure gauge in. Since I was working on the dash and wireing, I put a volt meter in and a 12volt socket plug in in case I needed a power source. I also re-did all my rocker electrical switches and a put new starter in. The horn now works with a button on the steering wheel and rocker switch. I changed all the filters and put new gear oil, engine oil, and hydraulic oil for the FEL & BH.
Next project is to adjust the valves.
Then a major project of spliting the tractor to fix a oil leak from bolts that didn’t have lock-tight from the factory (not until the summer).
Thanks for all the advice and help!!! I couldn’t keep my tractor running without this website.
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looks good but I would not wait to long on the loose bolts I have read on this forum about bolts backing off and stripping out threads and wallowing out things. also you might be able to salvage the clutch and pressure plate if not to soaked with oil and reuse. I would clean as best as I could and keep anyway as spare if you go new.
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Good work Len. I would say that the fuse box mounting leaves a little to be desired. It is subject to a great deal of vibration being out on that long moment arm and the grounding back through all those bolted connections is bound to introduce resistance to the circuits. Nickle based anti-seize is your friend on all those bolts. A cross brace a the end of the bar holding the horn would help a lot. The brass ends that are crimped on the wires will work harden and break. Ask me how I know….
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yeah, look at it while it is running and then see how to minimize and excess vibrations. I would think one cross brace should do it. Try to get as close to the end of the arm as you can and go diagonal to the other hood hinge area if you feel it is needed. The extra metal will give you another ground path also which is a good thing.
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Thanks for ideas. Yes I need to split the tractor and get those loose bolts fixed. I don’t plan on runnig it much until I get that done. The electrical fuse setup is a real joke. I want to change the mount, but so afraid if I start moving it around the wires will start breaking. These tractor are never ending maintenance and repair. Since I had it I completely re-worked the hydraulics on the LW-7, New seals and a cylinder on the Z-20 FEL, new up graded control w/hoses for the FEL, several hydraulic hoses, part of the exhaust, new starter, new raditor hoses, fuel line to the injectors, oil sending unit, new rubber boots on the shifters, new electrical rocker switches, aftermarket gauges. The clutch & Pressure plate still do not slip, which is good. Next projects, split the tractor to fix leak, rebuild L-7 BH cylinders, also have a gear oil leak in the right rear wheel seal which is leaking into the brake box, and adjust lifters. Oh and I while I was putting in new gauges the bracket for the seat broke (very thin meatal) will fab a new one. I must say that I could not have got all the work done at my place without it and still a lot more use for it. Lucky that I have welders, torches, mill, lathe, drill press and a plethora of power and hand tools. But the most important tool I have is access to the CTOA and fellow machine owners that provide help and advice!
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