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Recently my 404 ran long and hard at redline or above until I could get it shut down. Pulling and holding the fuel shut off lever wouldn’t shut it down or even slow it down. Closing the Petcock wouldn’t shut it down. I finally disconnected my fuel line to get it shut down. Anyone with any suggestions why my fuel shut off would not work at those high RPM’s. But yet it works fine on lower level rpms like anything below 1900. Thanks
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well you have to remember how much fuel is held in the fuel filters and associated hoses that would need be used up before it starved out.
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well you have to remember how much fuel is held in the fuel filters and associated hoses that would need be used up before it starved out.
The fuel shut off lever is directly on the injector pump after all the other connection fuel lines filters etc. Its the last thing before injecting into the motor.
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Not knowing your exact injection pump, my best guess is that the lever is on a shaft that turns and is probably held on with a set screw, although it may have a flat on the shaft. Is there any chance that the lever is loose on the shaft? That might explain why it would not shut off properly.
If the lever is secure on the shaft about the only other thing I can think of is a problem inside the injection pump. I think the cut off lever actuates what is called the rack. The rack is used inside to meter fuel flow according to the throttle setting and the input from the governor. The cut off lever just keeps moving the rack until it has shut down the fuel flow to nothing.
I imagine that if the governor was holding the rack full open it might be possible that the cut off is not engaging the rack as to pull it back. This may be a governor problem or a problem with the rack/cut off connection.
When was the last time you changed the oil in the governor? If it is like the pump on my Y385 engine you can take the cover off and get a look at the governor inside. There should be some steel balls in there that should be in a slot like setup, If they are rusty or worn, that could be a problem.
In an emergency run-away situation you should always go for cutting off the airflow first because as David says, it can run a long time on fuel left in the hoses and filters. I know professional mechanics that always have a small piece of plywood available and easy access to the air intake opening any time they are starting a new or rebuild engine for the first time or any time they are starting an engine the first time after work on the injection pump. I even know a couple of them that had to use the plywood on some very large and expensive engines to stop a run away.
On your tractor, is the problem repeatable above 1900 RPM? or was it just a one time thing? If repeatable, I would have a look inside the governor housing for anything obvious then refill with new oil and test again. If still happening, I think it is time to take the IP to a shop for proper diagnosis.
I wish I had more experience with this sort of thing, but I am kind of glad I don’t….
Let us know what you find.
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So shutting down the tractor. A note for all other JINMA 404 and 454 owners Same basic tractor. The hood will not open to expose the air intake when the FEL is in the down position. I was on the ground trying to shut the tractor off as it continued to go well beyond redline. Desperately shutting off the petcock and pulling on the fuel shut off valve. The tractor continued to race out of control (not the first time). First time my hood was up I covered the air intake to suffocate the tractor with no air it does work… Be prepared to be completely covered with black soot like a coal train!!!! This time no way. hood was down. FEL was down, Nothing helped I did no time to jump back up raise the FEL then Jump back down open the hood go find a rag and try to smother it. No way!!! I grabbed a wrench and undid the fuel line attached directly to the Injector Pump. The engine started to falter immediately. She shut down within seconds. WHew!!!!! Remember this was all during regular tractor operation. I was not prepared for anything like this to happen. This tractor only has 156 hours and its 16 years old… 2005 I know right!!!
Anyway thanks for the heads up about the oil in the pump/ governor. I checked it last night. It was virtually empty. I filled it up. Wish it was more accessible. But it is what it is. I guess that should be checked every time you put fuel in the tank. Hopefully that was it!! Where does the oil even go??? It not in a combustion chamber!!! Thanks for the heads up about pulling the top off the pump. I will do that in the next couple days and have a look in there to see what’s up and how it looks.
Thanks
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I think you probably found your problem with the dry governor. Hopefully the parts inside are all OK and it just needed lube.
I change my governor oil at every engine oil change, it uses the same oil and only takes a few ounces. I also have a short piece of clear hose with a plug in it on the overflow nipple. That way I can monitor if it is overflowing or not. My IP leaks a little fuel into the governor and it will dilute the oil over time. This seems dependent on what I am doing, idling is the worst, full throttle working hard the level stays constant.
Take a look at page 40 of the first document on this page: http://www.harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html Feel free to download and keep any of the documents, I posted them for others to use, I didn’t create them, just passing them along.
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I would run it for lets say 2 hours ,then drain the injector pump and look at the oil , feel it smell it and see if there is a lot of diesel in the oil just so you know that it might take more servicing than the book requires. I have a 204 dong feng and it also leaks diesel into the injector pump oil housing resivour. I look at it about every 25 hours of running time. But let me say this diesel in the injector pump is better than a dry one.
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