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Sorry David, but I'm still having problems with the vernacular.
Is this a suction side filter or a return line filter?
Does the line from the filter go to the hydraulic pump, or does it go to the valve block?
I cannot think of any reason why you would be seeing copper flakes, as the only places copper is used is in sealing washers, under-plating for chrome plating (hydraulic rods / shafts), and underlayment for zinc or babbitt plating on engine plain bearings, and of course the radiator.
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I had that same issue until I installed the new joystick loader valve, but it still does it ever so slightly, maybe 1 second. I think the problem actually lies with pump capacity. The OEM pump, I believe, is rated around 7 gpm @ 2,000 r/m. There is a higher capacity pump available, I think it is a CBN-16 or something like that. Ronald has the details for it. I'm thinking about upgrading my pump too to kind of smooth things out a little more but I've got so much on my plate right now I can barely think straight.
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Grizz wrote:
“Anyone know what the torque spec for the suction banjo bolt is? The big-daddy one at the tank. Is it closer to “hand tight plus a quarter turn” or “lean on it until you burst a blood vessel in your eye”.
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If you are referring to the large hex fitting that holds the suction strainer in the reservoir I would use about 70 – 75 ft. lbs. if you are using a fiber gasket on it. If you are referring to just the banjo bolt and using copper washers then 30 ft. lbs. should be adequate. Those torque values are approximately what I use.Oh, and Keno filled it with AW46 but the manual states AW32. Any downside to keeping with the AW46?
AW46 will be fine in your moderate Bay Area climate. Man, I miss that climate
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Yuchai doesn't make any bolt-on snow accessories that I know of, however there are some shoes at Northern Tool that you could easily adapt, but you would still have to use some finesse with the blade on loose gravel.
My suggestion would be to mount a pair of heavy duty pneumatic swivel casters to the backside of the blade and make them manually adjustable for height with jack screws. Then you can use the dozer's float position with no worries about gouging the gravel.
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Hi David, welcome.
What is wrong with your engine that you feel you need to do this?
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If it's coming from the “fitting on the injector pump”, that's the barrel and plunger assembly for that particular cylinder and they are not sold seperatley, and I seriously doubt that's the case. The hard lines are special schedule 120 tubing and use special ferrules and nuts, and they are all the same length. They are available through dealers and you must specify for which cylinder. Unless you are experienced in this work don't attempt a repair, just purchase with a new line. You are dealing with pressures over 2,000 psig which can easily puncture your skin and cause blood poisoning. Be safe.
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A bad bearing can cause a ceramic seal failure easily, but I doubt they sell rebuild kits for these pumps. Also, dirty coolant will knock out a seal in short order, like minute particles of casting sand left in the block and other debris. That’s why there are coolant filters on larger diesel engines. Coolant cleanliness is very important as it can have a direct effect on engine life and performance.
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