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Sulfur (ironically) is one of the main anti-wear and extreme pressure additives in gear oil, and that is what attacks the brass. Actually, it attacks the zinc in the brass and causes de-zincification. kinda makes it look like Swiss cheese. So be confident that there are no brass/bronze parts in the dozer final drives, and as far as I know there are none in the rest of the drive train that would come into contact with any EP gear oil.
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Yes, it is pressure lubricated from the engine. You should still check your engine oil for fuel dilution. This can come from a bad barrel and plunger assembly, not common though, but if you get a dose of diesel bugs you'll want to keep a closer eye on it. They are very corrosive.
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I probably jumped the gun a little because your hoe may not have a float detent on the boom valve (pull it back beyond the stop). If you don't have it you can just feather the boom just like you guessed.
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Water (moisture) is heavier that oil, any kind. WD-40 is a petroleum based product. Any protection against moisture is short lived after the propellant evaporates.
ASTM has procedures for testing metal preservatives.
I wouldn't use WD-40. If you're serious about it use Cosmoline or Lubriplate.
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Hi John, welcome.
That will happen when you are working in caliche. It's actually telling you that you need a much bigger, say heavier, machine. One thing you can do is to float the boom while you're bringing in the dipper and curling the bucket. Not too productive but at least the tractor will stay on the ground.
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Rich gave good advice. As for the type of oil, use what you use in the engine and change it along with the engine oil. Check it for fuel dilution when you do.
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He's talking about a dozer Tommy.
I tried to flush that black paste out of my finals but nothing would reduce it.
For the final drive lubricant I recommend and use 85w-140 extreme pressure (EP) gear oil. I use Chevron but any brand will do as long as it meets that formulation. Fill both sides up to the tattle-tale hole.
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Cleaning the reservoir will be a lot easier if you completely remove the suction strainer (it's behind the big banjo fitting). A good rinse with kerosene should emulsify any crud in the bottom and flush it right out. Use an Air-Vac if you have compressed air handy.
So the shavings are probably from the manufacturing process. I've seen wierder things on new US made products.
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Roger:
“Okay! With all thats been said is there a standard size key that fits in the keyway of my injection pump?”
If it were me, I’d just take the old key to the local hardware store and match it up – they aren’t anything special, just metric (maybe).
But to answer your question, Yes. All key stock and corresponding keyways are standard sizes. There is a mathematical formula used to determine which size of key to select for a given size shaft and whether it is tapered or not. This task is usually burdened by the machine designer so you don't have to worry about it.
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