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The coolant recovery reservoirs can be mounted almost anywhere that’s convenient. They don’t even have to be near the engine as long as the tube remains full. The tube should always be located below the coolant level in the reservoir. If it goes in from the top it should go to within 1/2″ from the bottom. The reservoir must be vented to the atmosphere. The radiator cap allows coolant to be drawn back into the radiator during cool down.
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Yep. I upgraded to this valve and I love it. http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Directional-Control-Valves/2-SPOOL-COMPACT-10-GPM-JOYSTICK-CONTROL-VALVE-9-7401.axd
However, I had to add the power beyond port in order to install this valve for the blade tilt. http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Directional-Control-Valves/1-SPOOL-8-GPM-PRINCE-MB11B5C1-DA-VALVE-9-7861.axd
Some modification of the saddlebag is necessary, and you will have to get a bunch of hose adapters from Tommy. I have pics of my mods, just have to find them
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I believe the radiator caps should be 7 psi, or .48 bar. Double check that.
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Thermostats usually come with a small hole in them. Some even have a tiny rattler type check valve. I would not block off the by-pass at all. Coolant recovery systems usually run about $10. at most auto parts houses. Even a Mason jar will work with a hose to within 1/2″ of the bottom, and half full when cold. Do you have this type of thermostat?
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Actually that’s not the purpose of the by-pass circuit. The main reason for it is to allow coolant flow while the thermostat is closed to prevent pump cavitation. I would double check your thermostat to make sure it isn’t sticking open, and also to see what it’s actual rating is. You should have no air in the cooling system at all because air can’t transfer heat like coolant can. Ideally you want a one quart coolant recovery bottle connected to the radiator overflow tube. This will assure that air is not sucked back into the system.
70° C = 158°. You should be running at least 85° C = 185 ° F. Running the engine “cold” like that prevents moisture from being evaporated from the oil, but also allows more soot to form in the combustion chamber and contaminate the oil. Those two items are just a tip of the iceberg as to why engines should run very warm.
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Trevor, what’s up with the compressor oil formulation in the fuel injection pump? How can you validate that? Completely unnecessary and only adds to the inventory. Just use the same oil that’s used in the engine. That’s how Cat, Cummins, Navistar, and Woodward do it.
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Not that familiar with wheeled tractors, but did you purchase the tractor new from a dealer that did pre-delivery service work on it? That pre-delivery service should have included the change of all oils, filters, and lubricants, and all linkage, valve, and clutch adjustments. Most any major brand of oil/lubricant will be fine, and any in-house brands will be fine too if they state on the label that they meet specs. For the engine, use a 15w-40 oil such as Chevron Delo 400LE or Shell Rotella.
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How’s that retirement treating you?
Griz
It’s great, but I need to get back to work for some rest. :yahoo:
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