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Tim wrote:
Runs at about 130 degrees now.
Should be running at 180° to 190°F (82.2° to 87.7°C). You need to check to see if the rubber doughnut spacer is missing from on top of the thermostat. That won’t be in your manual.
The right brake was pretty tight and matched the left after the “protocol” but now isn’t as responsive after some use?
It’s possible that: 1) The steering clutch isn’t releasing soon enough and conflicting with the brake. 2) The brake lining has oil on it (did you check the plugs underneath?).
Is it possible to replace the brake lining from the top of the dozer with out removing the track?
Yuchai tried to accomplish that procedure by introducing segmented lining, but it didn’t work very well. You can remove to old brake band from the top, but you cannot successfully install a new one from the top. Replacing a brake band involves blocking the dozer, dropping a track, and removing a final drive to get into the clutch compartment. Pretty involved.
Hard to see the blade, any help on the thread size on the original holes in the blade for eyebolts? I am working on putting up some blade markers but tried 14 mm coarse and was slightly small.
16mm if I remember correctly. Not sure what you are trying to see, but what you really need to keep an eye on is the cutting edge corners. I have a grade and bank indicator attached to the ROPS, it works pretty good for rough grading.
Can’t afford laser levels yet but may jimmy rig a Bosch laser detector at a later date.
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Sounds familiar :yes: . I replaced all of the brass zerk fittings on mine. The top carrier rollers should have a zerk fitting on the outside just like the bottom rollers and idlers, which should get five shots of grease every ten operating hours (equivalent of one shift). The TY395E engines don’t have a zerk fitting on the coolant pump – nothing to worry about.
Glad you changed all the lubricants. Don’t know what you used, but I recommend 15w-40 oil for the engine such as Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo 400. The transmission and bevel gear compartment share the same sump and use 80w-90 gear oil. The final drives use 85w-140 gear oil. There are large plugs underneath the steering clutch compartments that should be removed periodically to see if any oil is leaking into that compartment. I use some red dye in the final drive oil so I can tell which seal would be leaking. Flushing the cooling system is recommended if you haven’t already done so because casting sand is a coolant pump seal’s worst enemy. I have a coolant filter on all my machines.
It should be noted that most, if not all, of the Chinese tractors wiring is marginal at best, and in some cases undersized. I completely rewired mine when I installed an 80 amp Delco 12Si alternator. I also replaced all of my gauges with Murphy Switchgages© that are connected to an alarm system (something you see on higher end equipment).
Glad you’re getting some seat time. :good:
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I didn’t get that label on my transmission, but loosely translating the “Chinglish” it means one shot of grease every 50 operating hours. This lubricates the clutch release (throw out) bearing. This is a semi-sealed ball thrust bearing, and over lubricating it will spill grease into the clutch pressure plate and migrate to the clutch disc causing slipping, in which case you will have to replace the clutch disc, which is an involved operation. Always remember to not rest your foot on the clutch pedal when operating.
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Hi Tim, welcome to CTOA and congratulations on your new dozer. Hope you have many happy hours of seat time. :good:
The lever in question is not really an adjustment, but a means of applying the right steering brake. You could call it a “parking brake”. I removed mine altogether because it interfered with making clutch/brake adjustments, and served no other practical purpose. B-)
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I had that very same issue with my LW-6 boom cylinder – twice, and the swing and stick cylinders once. What happens is that the piston cup seals blow and leak by. The OEM seals are something like rubber or neoprene, and didn’t like the synthetic hydraulic oil I was using at the time. I was finally able to get an aftermarket kit from Tommy that had polyurethane cup seals in it. That is what you want.
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Read this thread:
http://www.ctoa.net/topic/alternatorkeyswitchvoltmeter-replacement/
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Also, if you upgrade to a Delco Si series alternator you will have to upgrade the wiring because the OEM alternator only has a nominal output of around 14 amps. And it is recommended to install a smaller pulley to allow the Delco to perform as required.
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Are you sure it’s the “battery light” and not the “key on” indicator light? There is also a red LED on the voltage regulator that indicates there is “sense” voltage to the alternator field circuit.
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