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I removed my tire weight to deal with last weeks flat rear tire issue.
Instead of mounting the weight to the tire and then mounting the assembly to the axle I mounted them individually.
I used an indexing rod to position the weight into position on the rim. That rod was .560 inches in diameter. The bolts that hold the weights in place are M12x1.75 metric carriage bolts with a .470” square shank. That carriage bolt is 3&1/4” longMy indexing rod had to be square at one end to .470” to fit into the square holes in the axle flange that holds the entire wheel and tire assembly. I used a 4” grinder to square the rod end.
I used a hydraulic jack to raise the weight into position and then used my .570 indexing rod to position and raise the weight into the final position to bolt it into place.I managed to find one on EBay.
https://ebay.io/m/pmiJa7For some reason my original post never got published. And some of my older posts have vanished as well. And the contact the moderator does not work either.
My original post stated that my rear tire inner tube failed after 23 years and driving it on a flat for 100 yards ruined the tire or the tire failed in several places and eventually allowed the inner tube to become punctured.
My replacement was found locally after waiting 24 hours and cost $350 plus $28 for a remount. The original Chinese tire was a 12 ply and this replacement tire is a 6 ply from India. And the replacement is 1/2” less wide even though it stated 9.5-24.
shrinkflation?David , Thanks for the response.
I will do the same process as you did and I will choose the #3 green wire coming from my fuse holder and 25 amp fuse,swapped out for a 2 amp to protect the voltmeter.
But the yellow # 5 circuit wire from the OEM ammeter is a hot wire and cannot be used as a ground, so another ground must be found.My confusion with ammeter wiring was erased after I researched ammeter nomenclature.
Ammeters at first thought appear to flow and show current flow without the need for a grounding potential.
The axiom for ammeter installation says always place the ammeter in circuit between the battery +and alternator/ generator/load (lights, alternator exciter ,ect)+ circuit and electrical energy then either flows to the battery or to the alternator/generator/load(lights, alternator exciter ,turn signals ect. )I suddenly realized that there is a negative electrical potential for ammeters and that as electricity is being generated at the alternator/generator it is flowing through the ammeter towards the battery + wiring towards the battery negative ground.
As the battery is being depleted that electrical energy is flowing backwards through the ammeter towards the starter/alternator ,lights grounding points.
So Ammeters are connected to positive wiring and measure the push/ pull of electricity and that electricity is eventually going to grounding points either at the battery or load.Ps;I can remove both the green and yellow wires from the ammeter and measure 12 volts hot from the green wire and separately from the yellow wire coming from the key-switch. As it was the ammeter was without polarity and was fed 12 volts from both wires.
While replacing my Jinma 254 ammeter with a voltmeter the wiring has confused me.
Both Green wire from the 25 amp fuse holder wire to the Ammeter and Yellow wire from Key-switch to ammeter are 12 volts hot. I can remove the yellow wire from the ammeter and the tractor will still start and all instruments will operate, except the ammeter .I thought the green wire from the 25amp fuse holder fed 12volts/ current through the ammeter and then fed the key switch 12 volts which powered the solenoid then starter.
Can anyone clarify my thoughts?
David ;Going over some past posts.
Have you noticed the original posts to this and other forums are missing? And much of each post loses context without those original posts.My 2003 Homier Farmpro 254 Jinma Tractor uses a fuse holder labeled BX410-1 and according to Thomas Laskowski at Affordable is completely different from the two replacements he sells.
I found an identical one on Amazon here;and is listed as BX2101-1
The main 30 Amp fuse position metal crimps that grip the 19mm standard blade fuse on my tractor had broken off. The blade fuse was not making a reliable circuit.
Luckily I was able to remove that wire connection and rebend the holder to now reliably grip the fuse blade.
By the way, the release for that metal connector is plastic and part of the fuse block and not part of the metal connector as is more standard. Just use a very small flat blade screwdriver to hold the plastic finger down to release the metal connector from the fuse holder.David;The heat generation will deteriorate those copper connections and silicone cap.
I have had three fail in 22 years. All from excess heat.
If your electrics are in the upper orientation simply loosen the hose clamps and spin it.
All that heat will go into the block and not the electrics.
