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David , Thanks for the response.
I will do the same process as you did and I will choose the #3 green wire coming from my fuse holder and 25 amp fuse,swapped out for a 2 amp to protect the voltmeter.
But the yellow # 5 circuit wire from the OEM ammeter is a hot wire and cannot be used as a ground, so another ground must be found.My confusion with ammeter wiring was erased after I researched ammeter nomenclature.
Ammeters at first thought appear to flow and show current flow without the need for a grounding potential.
The axiom for ammeter installation says always place the ammeter in circuit between the battery +and alternator/ generator/load (lights, alternator exciter ,ect)+ circuit and electrical energy then either flows to the battery or to the alternator/generator/load(lights, alternator exciter ,turn signals ect. )I suddenly realized that there is a negative electrical potential for ammeters and that as electricity is being generated at the alternator/generator it is flowing through the ammeter towards the battery + wiring towards the battery negative ground.
As the battery is being depleted that electrical energy is flowing backwards through the ammeter towards the starter/alternator ,lights grounding points.
So Ammeters are connected to positive wiring and measure the push/ pull of electricity and that electricity is eventually going to grounding points either at the battery or load.Ps;I can remove both the green and yellow wires from the ammeter and measure 12 volts hot from the green wire and separately from the yellow wire coming from the key-switch. As it was the ammeter was without polarity and was fed 12 volts from both wires.
While replacing my Jinma 254 ammeter with a voltmeter the wiring has confused me.
Both Green wire from the 25 amp fuse holder wire to the Ammeter and Yellow wire from Key-switch to ammeter are 12 volts hot. I can remove the yellow wire from the ammeter and the tractor will still start and all instruments will operate, except the ammeter .I thought the green wire from the 25amp fuse holder fed 12volts/ current through the ammeter and then fed the key switch 12 volts which powered the solenoid then starter.
Can anyone clarify my thoughts?
David ;Going over some past posts.
Have you noticed the original posts to this and other forums are missing? And much of each post loses context without those original posts.My 2003 Homier Farmpro 254 Jinma Tractor uses a fuse holder labeled BX410-1 and according to Thomas Laskowski at Affordable is completely different from the two replacements he sells.
I found an identical one on Amazon here;and is listed as BX2101-1
The main 30 Amp fuse position metal crimps that grip the 19mm standard blade fuse on my tractor had broken off. The blade fuse was not making a reliable circuit.
Luckily I was able to remove that wire connection and rebend the holder to now reliably grip the fuse blade.
By the way, the release for that metal connector is plastic and part of the fuse block and not part of the metal connector as is more standard. Just use a very small flat blade screwdriver to hold the plastic finger down to release the metal connector from the fuse holder.David;The heat generation will deteriorate those copper connections and silicone cap.
I have had three fail in 22 years. All from excess heat.
If your electrics are in the upper orientation simply loosen the hose clamps and spin it.
All that heat will go into the block and not the electrics.Here is the reoriented lower hose heater.
This one has been modified because the factory silicone rubber cap and contacts overheated and had to be discarded.David;Great observation and thanks.
I was wrong to call it a “block heater”.I was referring to a lower radiator hose heater and the silicone rubber cap that holds the 4 copper contacts for temperature switch and immersion heater. When that silicone cap is oriented to the top of that lower radiator hose it degrades from heat and always fails first.
Rotate the heater 180 degrees to reduce or eliminate the problem.Having gone through several engine block heaters on my Farm Pro 254 in the last 20 years I have seen a pattern.
The copper connectors molded into the silicon? molded electrical cord connections corrode and loosen and then fail.
Extreme heat is the problem.
To Ameliorate the problem I have flipped the position of the block heater so that the generated heat accumulates in the aluminum body of the heater and the copper cord connections are at the bottom of the heater and not on top. I simply loosened the two hose clamps and rotated the body of the heater.
It appears that this has also quickened the warmup because the heat can readily rise into the engine block water jacket.
