Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
That is interesting. Thanks for posting.
The info I had indicated it was a one for one wire replacement.
I put a solenoid in my glow plug circuit years ago to take the strain off of the contacts in the key switch.
Glad you got it working.
not as expensive as I would have guessed.
Good choice. Maybe I should buy one for my spares box.
Where did you get it?
Hi Dave,
No experience with the Ford switch but have saved the number just in case. My Jinma switch is working just fine after 14 years (I know I just jinxed it!)
I would suggest trying to spray some circuit cleaner into the switch. Likely just a little dirty inside. Could be the switch itself or just the key tumblers that are gummed up.
That is quite a challenge.
What type of surface will you be driving on? Traction and stopping ability are very important.
Conditions of the brakes is equally important. Most tractors don’t have very good brakes to start with, and many are not adjusted properly.
Rigging the load is very important. Taking the bucket off will indeed increase your lifting capacity. However the load will be closer to the front of the tractor so you have to take that into consideration. As the lift arms go up the load will get even closer. The load needs to be rigged so that it won’t spin. Helpers with guide ropes would be a huge advantage.
I would go down the hill backwards with the backhoe live and the bucket kept just a couple of inches above the ground. I would also probably run the outriggers down that far too. (think training wheels on a bike) Keep the load as low as possible at all times when the tractor is in motion. If it can only go an inch or two there is a lot less chance of bad things happening and you can quickly get it down if something does go wrong.
Use the lowest gear you have, speed is not your friend. At all times be ready to dump the load to the ground as fast as possible.
Don’t forget to air up the tires too.
If the load turns out to be too much for your tractor you might consider fixing up some kind of a skid where you only need to pick up one end and drag the other end.
Have you primed the fuel system using the hand pump?
If you can confirm fuel flow from the hand pump, through the screw on filter and into the injection pump, the next step would be to loosen the hard fuel lines at each injector and crank to see if you have fuel coming out.
Dave is right, they put filters in weird places on these tractors. I would start at the tank and work through the system until you find the place where the flow stops.
Let us know more details as you work through the system.
What make, model and year is your engine?
Do you have a parts manual for your engine? If not you can find online parts lookup systems at places like Affordable Tractors or Circle G Tractors.
Is the part broken in such a manner as it could be welded back together?
If possible please post a picture of this part.
I would get a radiator cap of a known pressure. The original was probably something like 6 or 7 pounds. Anything more than that can cause problems.
If you are not running a coolant recovery tank, then the proper coolant level is just above the radiator core tubes when cold. These leaves room in the header for the coolant to expand when it warms up.
You definitely need to find the source of the leak so you can determine the proper fix.
My suggestion is to try and find the source of the leak. Then clean and dry the engine in the suspect area. Check and correct the coolant level if necessary. Start the engine and let it warm up at a fast idle. Leave the radiator cap off and watch the coolant while it warms up. You should be able to observe the flow rate increase the thermostat opens. Watch closely for bubbles. Also watch for coolant to appear at the suspected leak point.
Please let us know what you find and post a picture if possible.
Good Luck.
