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That sounds about correct. Whatever the tread pitch of the sensor is, you can then calculate how many turns to back it out after making light contact. I think you are shooting for a final gap of 2 to 8 mm.
One thing I would do before screwing in the new sensor is to take something that you can “feel” the ring gear with and then turn the engine by hand at least one full revolution to make sure there isn’t too much runout in the ring gear. Then turn the engine until the most forward part of the gear is lined up with the sensor before installing it. That you know that the gap will not get any closer as the gear spins.
The other option is to carefully mark the old sensor before unscrewing it, then put it beside the new sensor and mark the depth.
Use both methods as a cross check. The last thing you want is the ring gear chewing into your brand new sensor.
Yeah, I’ve done that job. Not terribly difficult but tedious and time consuming.
You have to take the whole knuckle apart so you can replace the seals and the felt. The felt is just there as a kind of barrier to keep the debris off the seals so they last longer. Once the felt is gone the seals go next, then you have a leak.
Usually it puts a groove in the spindle that won’t seal unless you do something about that too. In my case I special ordered some spedee-sleeve type bushings to slip over the spindle to give the new seal a smooth surface to ride on.
The biggest part of the job is making sure you get all the paper shims back in the correct locations so that you don’t have to mess with the backlash in the gears.
Do you have the parts and service manuals? If not, take a look at my web site and you can download them from there. Do it quickly though, as my web site is about to disappear in a few weeks. www. harnerfarm.net
The bent tie rod is the clue. More than likely you went over a hard snow or ice ridge that pushed up on the tie rod and bent it. The other possibility is you put a big side load on one wheel or the other and the tie rod just wasn’t strong enough, so it bent.
Don’t worry, it happens when doing loader work or driving over rough ground.
The good news is that it is easy to remove the tie rod and straighten it back. It does not have to be perfect because you have a fair amount of adjustment in the tie rod ends anyway.
Been there, done that. I have a shop press that made the job easy, but it is not needed to get the tie rod back to nearly straight.
Do you have a parts book? If not, look at the diagram on this page:
https://www.circlegtractorparts.com/hydraulic-steering-and-pipe-4wd-18-28hp-tractors
The input shaft seal in part #17 is leaking and forcing oil up the outer tube part #6. The leak is actually at the bottom of the column. There is no parts breakdown for the steering gear box. To fix it your only option is to take it apart and take to seal to a bearing supply place to see if they can measure it for fitment.
Personally, I would buy an entirely new gearbox as there may be other parts worn. Then once the new box is on and working, I would take the old one apart to see if it is worth fixing for a spare to have on hand.
I’m just starting research into this myself. My 2006 284 now has 1100 hours on it and the PTO side is at it’s adjustment limits. The main clutch is still working.
From what I can tell the 284 could have an 8 or a 9 inch clutch. You have to know which size before you can order. I think the 9 inch is the only one that can be upgraded and the only way to know for sure which one you have is to split the tractor. Generally I would want to have the new parts on hand before doing that. I hate waiting for parts. Also the freight for a return would be a killer.
Once I get closer to the job I will call a couple of the dealers and see if they can tell me more than what is listed on the web sites. In any case it is always a good idea to replace the throw out bearing any time you get a chance.
If you find out any more info about this, please post it in a reply.
Are the adjusters at the end of their travel?
If not, adjust again otherwise the clutch may finally have worn out.
Tractor splitting time. Ugh!
Can you confirm that there is not any contamination on the clutch by looking inside? An internal oil leak could cause a clutch to slip even though it isn’t worn out. But, that again means splitting the tractor to fix the leak. 🙁
A contaminated clutch disc MAY be able to be cleaned with brake cleaner and saved. Operative word, MAY.
Besides, once you get it open to fix whatever is wrong, a new clutch and throw out bearing are almost imperative at that point.
I’m facing the same kind of thing on my tractor, unfortunately there are two options for clutches and I have to split it to find out which one I need. I would much prefer to have the replacement on hand before splitting the tractor.
Even with an overhead gantry and an engine hoist, this is not a job I am looking forward to. It won’t be “hard” but a lot of fiddly stuff to deal with just to get to the problem. Just thankful it isn’t a fancy tractor with cab, A/C, heat, lights, stereo and a huge wiring harness.
Best of luck
Ok, good. Now I know where you are coming from. What you have done so far is all good.
As for the 3 pt. lift cylinder. It is just a one way cylinder (no down pressure) but it does have two fluid ports. One port lets in fluid from the control valve when you pull up on the lever. The other port is the one that flows through the needle valve and then back through the control valve when the lever is in the down position.
The locking screw is on the front face of the housing and on mine at least it is just a slotted pan head screw. If it gets turned in to tight it can mess up the threads on the knob and make it difficult to turn.
You might be able to relieve the pressure in the cylinder by putting the lever in the up position (engine off of course) and manipulating any of the other hydraulic controls. There may be a check valve in the control valve that would keep fluid from flowing backward, I am not sure about that, but it won’t hurt to try.
Just now looking at the parts diagram, I see that Jinma does indeed call the needle valve a hydraulic spool rod. Something must have been lost in the translation, Ha!
Anyway, that valve screws into the end of the cylinder block and there are some caps that are also screwed into that block. You might try cracking those caps to see if it will let off the pressure. If you don’t have a parts book, you can see it here:
https://www.circlegtractorparts.com/hydraulic-power-lift-18-28hp-tractors
IF the exit port is blocked by debris, you may have no choice other than to remove the entire block to clean it out. If you didn’t find much crud in the pickup screen, I would leave this as a last resort kind of thing.
There just isn’t much information about the internal workings of these valves as there are no internal parts available so you have to buy the whole thing. That doesn’t mean you can’t take them apart and clean them.
The power steering is probably not related at all to the 3 point issue. About the only two things that can cause steering problems are the steering box and the priority valve. The fact that you have good flow in one direction but not the other would kind of rule out the priority valve, leaving the steering box at the bottom of the column as the prime suspect. There have been reports of these going bad and I think the only alternative is to replace it.
How many hours do you have on your tractor? I have almost 1100 on mine and have not had any hydraulic issues other than hoses and seals at fittings. Although I have one FEL lift cylinder that is starting to leak. I am using the FEL daily at this point and don’t want to sacrifice good weather with down time so I just keep the tank topped off.
Hopefully you can get some fluid out of one of those plugs and get it working again. Let me know what happens or if you have any more questions.
Steering should have nearly equal flow both directions.
It is starting to sound like you have some debris in the system.
When was the last time you cleaned the pickup screen (or filter if equipped) and or changed fluid?
Have you checked the fluid level?
My 284 only holds a little over 2 gallons which really isn’t enough when the FEL is mounted and the hydraulics start acting up if the level gets down very far.
Ok, now some questions:
What make, model and year of tractor do you have?
I am unsure what you are referring to as “hydraulic spool rod”. This is a term I have never heard used before. Most hydraulic control valves have a spool inside them that slides and are sometimes called a spool valve. The spool itself is free to rotate in the bore, but there is no way to “turn” them. Typically any rod that is associated with a hydraulic valve is just a link rod between the control lever and the valve mechanism. Can you be more specific about exactly what you are referring too? Perhaps post a picture?
From your description, it seems like you removed the snow blower and attached the blade. Then you were able to use the 3 point to lift the blade but now it will not come down. Is that correct?
Did the hard steering start after the blade got stuck or before?
Are there any strange noises from the hydraulic system, specifically a squeal or groan from the pump?
Do you have a front end loader on the tractor?
Do you have a single hydraulic system with only one pump that runs everything, or does the power steering have its own separate system?
If you have a Jinma tractor or one made by them it is highly likely that there is a needle valve for controlling the lowering of the 3 point. This is usually located under the front of the seat. It will have a scalloped knob that you can turn to adjust. There is likely a screw on the front of the housing that is used to lock the knob once it is adjusted. This knob will not turn until you loosen the lock screw. The purpose of the adjuster knob is to close or open the needle valve, which in turn controls how fast the 3 point system will lower. If you have something heavy on the 3 point lift it can “slam” down rather hard if the needle is too far open. The opposite is true if you have something light weight (or nothing at all) on the arms, it might take a very long time to lower if the valve is too far closed.
This valve only controls how fast the arms lower, not how fast they go up. It can also be used to “lock” the arms to prevent them from lowering by trapping the fluid in the cylinder. You can add more fluid to raise it more, but it can’t come down until the needle valve is opened. This can be a real problem if you lift something up all the way and the valve is closed, The internal pressure can make it really hard to open the needle valve.
My point of reference for all this is my Jinma 284 made in 2006. It has one hydraulic system that runs the power steering, 3 point lift and the front end loader when it is mounted and connected. There is also a priority (diverter) valve that gives priority to the steering system whenever you are using the FEL or the 3 point. This valve sits between the steering and 3 point and it can cause problems for both, but usually not the problem of the 3 point being stuck all the way up.
If it were me diagnosing this, I would lower the FEL (if mounted), put the 3 point control lever in the “down” position (it will stay there) and shut off the tractor. Put any additional weight you can on the blade and let it sit overnight in the hopes that it will slowly bleed down.
If it does, great, adjust the needle valve and move on (don’t forget the lock screw). If it does not bleed down, I would loosen the needle valve, by force with some big pliers if needed. Be careful here, because if it is under pressure when it does come loose it can blow fluid everywhere! There could be debris in the needle valve that is preventing it from releasing so be prepared to take it all the way out. It will be messy! Best done when the fluid is not hot.
